Puttanesca sauce is a southern Italian culinary staple associated with the city of Naples in Campania. The name itself carries a touch of intrigue as the word “puttanesca” is believed to have originated from the Italian word "puttana," meaning prostitute. However, the sauce's true etymology remains shrouded in culinary folklore.

Several legends surround the naming of puttanesca sauce. One popular story suggests that the sauce’s alluring aroma would waft through the streets of Naples, enticing men to the local brothels. The quick preparation time and bold flavors were said to have been favored by ladies of the night between clients; hence the name puttanesca was attached to the sauce.

Today, the sauce’s tangy, robust, and briny profile is a testament to the artistry of Italian cuisine and will transport you to the vibrant streets of southern Italy. This spicy sauce can be enjoyed over pasta, like the traditional spaghetti alla puttanesca, or paired with fish dishes, especially full-flavored salmon or swordfish.

The recipe below draws inspiration from a Sicilian dish called Pesce Spada, which I recently enjoyed at Maialino restaurant in NYC. This dish features a medley of tomatoes, olives, and capers atop succulent swordfish.

Recipe: Swordfish Puttanesca

Serves 4

Ingredients

4 swordfish steaks (about 6 ounces each)
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 cloves garlic, minced
6 anchovy fillets, minced
1 can (28 ounces) whole-peeled DOP San Marzano tomatoes
1/3 cup golden raisins (not traditionally used in puttanesca, the raisins add a nice touch of sweetness that balances the chili flakes’ spiciness.)
1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
3 tablespoons capers, drained
1/2 to 1 teaspoon red chili flakes (adjust to taste)
2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped
1 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Preheat grill or stovetop grill pan over medium-high heat. Season swordfish steaks with salt and pepper.
In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add minced garlic and anchovy fillets, stirring until anchovies dissolve and garlic becomes fragrant, about 1-2 minutes.
Add crushed tomatoes and raisins to the skillet and bring sauce to a simmer. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stir in the Kalamata olives, capers, and red chili flakes. (Note: Feel free to adjust the spice level by adding more or less red chili flakes. Simmer sauce for an additional 5 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Add salt and pepper as needed.
Meanwhile, grill swordfish about 4-5 minutes per side until cooked through and nicely charred, a toal of 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Alternatively, you can cook the steaks on a preheated stovetop grill pan for the same amount of time.
Transfer the swordfish steaks to a serving platter. Spoon the Puttanesca sauce generously over each steak, allowing the flavors to infuse.
Garnish the dish with freshly chopped basil and parsley and serve alongside your favorite side dishes, such as mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, or a simple arugula salad.

Wine Pairing

To complement the dish's bold flavors while embracing regional flavors, consider pairing the swordfish with the fabulous wines of the Campania region. Here are two noteworthy options.

White wine

Di Meo Greco di Tufo 2020. The Greco di Tufo grape variety originates from the Campania region of Italy, and the wines it produces are renowned for their vibrant and expressive character.

Di Meo's rendition of Greco di Tufo shows lively acidity with hints of citrus and mineral undertones. The wine beautifully complements the brininess of the dish while offering a refreshing contrast.

Read more about Di Meo winery on Grape Collective.

Red wine

Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi 2016. While traditionally, Swordfish puttanesca is paired with white wines or lighter reds, a Taurasi wine's bold and structured nature can also match the dish's flavors. Taurasi wines, made from Aglianico, are renowned as the "Barolo of the south" and are often regarded as one of Italy's finest red wines.

With dark fruit flavors, like black cherry and plum, and hints of cocoa, tobacco, and a touch of spice, Mastroberardino’s Taurasi harmonizes beautifully with the boldness of puttanesca sauce.

Read more about Mastroberardino winery here.