A Ham-Based Pairing: Spanish Wines and Split Pea Soup

Nothing welcomes the cooler months like a warm, inviting bowl of soup. Easy to make, and even more delicious as leftovers, soup is simple and satisfying. The only thing that can make it better is the perfect glass of wine alongside it. However, pairing a liquid with a liquid is not as easy as, say, pairing a big, juicy steak with an equally big and fruity California Cab.

In TheSpruceEats.com, Stacy Slinkard says that figuring out which wine to drink with soup involves examining the dish's individual components. “If you break down your soup ingredients,” she says, “and view them as you would a pasta sauce or something of similar status, then your task will be less intimidating.”

Let’s take Stacy’s advice and look more closely at my split pea soup recipe, hopefully figuring out the best wines for the dish.  As the title suggests, it's obvious that split peas are the main ingredient here, yet the smoky, salty flavor of ham gives the dish its character.

What is Ham?

Until writing this, I hadn’t thought much about the difference between ham and pork. What I’ve since learned is that ham refers to a salt-cured leg of pork, whereas the term pork refers to any cut of raw meat that comes from a pig.

So, all ham is pork, but not all pork is ham. The recipe calls for a smoked ham hock (a cured leg of pork that is then smoked in a kiln), which gives the soup that wonderful — you guessed it — smoky flavor.

Iberico ham. Photo: latienda.com

Ham in Spain

From Hong Kong to Rome, many cultures use pork in their cuisine. When deciding which country to focus on for this wine pairing, Spain was the first that came to mind.

I’m not a huge meat eater, but whenever I’m in Spain, I cannot help but sample the incredible variety of tapas that are made with pork, particularly the cured kind, like Jamón Ibérico (Iberico ham), one of the country’s most iconic foods.

This tasty cured meat — a melt-in-your-mouth, thinly sliced ham — is usually served on its own or in a sandwich. There are many other popular Spanish dishes that include ham, from ham-stuffed croquetas to paella with chorizo.

A Slice of Ham History

Photo: Thomas Vogel (@tomvog)

Similar to many customs worldwide, Spain’s love of ham is partly the result of religious persecution. In 1492, the Spanish monarchy made a decree that only Catholicism could be practiced in Spain, forcing Jews and Muslims who didn’t leave the country to either convert or be killed.

The practice of displaying ham legs in windows of homes and businesses, prohibited by the Jewish and Muslim faith, was a declaration of one’s dedication to the Catholic church. Thankfully, times have changed, but the Spaniards’ love of ham remains.

Ham and Wine

When choosing a beverage to go with Split Pea Soup With Ham, Spanish wines, typically bold and fruity with plenty of acidity, pair well with the smoky, herbal savoriness of the dish.

Here are some great Spanish wines to enjoy with the soup.

Sherry

As a fortified wine, sherry provides a great contrast to another liquid. And dry sherry, with its unique, nutty flavor, goes particularly well. While fino or manzanilla sherries go best with delicately flavored soups, a more robust amontillado or oloroso fits the bill for a full-flavored soup like this one.

Try either the Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado, a real gem of a sherry that has beautiful hazelnut aromas, or a fuller-bodied oloroso like the mahogany colored Gonzalez Byass Alfonso that has beautiful walnut aromas.

Cava

Spain’s most famous sparkling wine is a great choice to pair with the soup. The invigorating bubbles are a nice contrast to its salty, smoky notes.

Try a light and lemony Cava with aromas of apple, pear and brioche, like the classic Marqués de Cáceres or go for an organic one like the Eudald Massana Noya Brut Nature, an outstanding example of a mineral-focused Cava with zesty green apple and lime notes and lots of yeasty complexity.

photo: @adriana.loveswine (Instagram)

Photo: Rachael Doob

Whites

Spanish whites run the gamut from light, crisp and fruity to rich and full-structured. Here are two exciting whites that couldn’t be more different, yet both go great with the soup.

The Nanclares Dandelion Albariño 2019 ($22), is a zesty, acid-driven wine with enchanting notes of lime, sea shell, and a hint of tropical fruit, whereas the Venus La Universal Dido Blanc 2017 ($28) is a vibrant and well-balanced blend of Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, and Xarelo, stunning with a creamy texture and complex flavors.

Reds

Where do we begin? Spain, known for its superb red wines, produces many wonderful examples from over 70 wine regions.

Let’s start with the most famous red, Rioja. It’s easy to find many great quality Tempranillo wines at affordable prices, such as the LAN X-Trème Ecologico Crianza 2015 ($17). Made from a small parcel of organic vines, this dry and savory red has beautiful notes of dark fruits, dried herbs, sweet vanilla, and a hint of licorice, all wrapped up in silky tannins.

Another LAN beauty is the Gran Reserva 2011 ($21), a fresh and lively red with many layers of complexity, including hints of cherry, vanilla, and baking spices. The fine-grained tannins, bright acidity, and finish that goes on and on make it a great accompaniment to the soup.

photo: Bodegas Lan

Or you could head over to nearby Ribera del Duero for a riper style of Tempranillo with more concentrated fruit, like the Dominio Fournier 2014 Reserva Ribera del Duero. Full-bodied and dense, yet super refreshing, this wine is impossible to put down. It has aromas of cherry, blackberries, black olives, licorice, tar, and black pepper that jump out of the glass. ($45). Or you could try its younger brother, Dominio Fournier 2016 Crianza, lighter in style but with just enough structure to support the many wonderful notes of dark red fruits. ($30).

Feeling adventurous? Turn towards a lesser-known region like Cigales, in northwestern Spain’s Castille y León province, where Tempranillo (locally called Tinta de Pais) makes bold, fruit-forward red wines. The Museum Reserva 2014 is a fine example, with a mix of earthy, oaky and fruity — think cherry, blackberry and blueberry — flavors. This beautifully balanced wine has silky tannins and a nice long finish. ($20)

Another underrated region is Utiel-Requena, where the Bobal grape is king. The Bodegas Iranzo Azul de Bobal 2016, organically produced, will wow you with its fragrant aromas of black cherry and chocolate. Medium-bodied, with bright acidity and chalky tannins, this wine was a winner with the soup. ($16)

Click here for the Split Pea Soup With Ham recipe.