Few countries take food and wine as seriously as Italy, where centuries of tradition have shaped some of the world’s most beloved flavors.

Last night, the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) hosted Aged to Perfection: Italian Cheese and White Wines, an event celebrating two of Italy’s best exports. Moderator Andrew Cotto, editor-in-chief of Appetito Magazine, kicked things off with a laugh, joking that he was chosen to moderate because he himself is “aged to perfection.”

Four experts, plenty of great wine, and cheesy food followed Cotto's introduction. Chef Fabrizio Facchini, of the Association of Italian Chefs in New York, put together a terrific selection of cheeses and three warm dishes: focaccia di Recco (a thin pizza stuffed with stracchino cheese), risotto with gorgonzola, and tortelloni with Parmigiano cream sauce.

The Business of Italian Cheese

Andrea Berti, Senior Director of Business Development at Atalanta Corp., shared some big numbers: the U.S. imports over $600 million worth of Italian cheese annually, matching the amount spent on Italian wines.

“Italy leads the world in PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) cheeses,” Berti noted. “The country has 55 cheese PDOs, and 30 are available here in the U.S.”

These designations ensure cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Provolone, Gorgonzola, Taleggio, and Pecorino Romano, to name a few, stick to their regional traditions.

Berti pointed out the incredible variety of cheeses that can be achieved with just milk and salt. He talked about under-the-radar cheeses like stracchino, a spreadable cheese with a fresh, milky taste, and trendy cheeses like Pecorino flavored with bergamot.

Cheeses wrapped in fig, chestnut, or other leaves are also becoming more popular. “Centuries ago, people wrapped cheeses to hide them from invaders,” he said, “but they soon realized it also made them taste better.”

The Art of Parmigiano Reggiano

Of all the PDO cheeses, Parmigiano Reggiano is among the world’s most beloved. Marketing Director Eugenio Perrier of its consortium explained what makes this cheese special. “The uniqueness of Parmigiano Reggiano starts with the grass,” he said. “Where it grows, what the cows eat, and even the type of cow influence the final product.”

Each wheel is handmade, and no two are exactly alike. The minimum aging period is 12 months, but some cheeses are aged for decades. “Young Parmigiano is milky, creamy, and tender,” Perrier said. “As it ages, it develops complexity, with notes of coffee and licorice, and the texture becomes crumbly and crystallized.”

Quality control is strict. Every wheel must pass inspection by experts who tap it with a small hammer to listen for imperfections. If it doesn’t meet the standard, it’s sold as a regular cheese and cannot be labeled Parmigiano Reggiano.

“There are no big factories for this,” Perrier emphasized. “The cheese can only be made from fresh milk, and the cows don’t take Sundays off.”

On The Rise: Italian White Wine

Susannah Gold, a certified sommelier and wine communicator at Vigneto Communications, made the case for Italian whites, which often play second fiddle to the country’s reds. “The whites are often misunderstood in the U.S.,” she said, “but are gaining in popularity.”

Guests tasted five wines from indigenous grape varieties, part of Italy’s vast viticultural landscape. “Italy has 350 registered grape varieties, but in reality, there are many more,” Gold explained. “Every region has its own unique reds and whites, and like Parmigiano Reggiano, the taste and style come from where the vines are grown and how the wine is made.”

Gold noted how Italy’s wine classification system helps consumers navigate quality levels. The highest appellations include 78 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wines and 330 DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wines. By contrast, IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) simply indicates the place of origin without as many restrictions on production methods.

**A southern Italian white from Basilicata, made from Fiano and Greco grapes.**

**Burrata, tomato and basil appetizer.**

A Celebration of Italian Artistry

Beyond the facts and figures, the evening was about the craftsmanship behind Italian cheese and wine. The cheeses were terrific on their own, or mixed into Chef Facchini’s delicious dishes. The Focaccia di Recco stood out with its gooey, melty stracchino cheese. The risotto with gorgonzola had just the right balance of creaminess and sharpness, and the tortelloni in Parmigiano cream sauce was pure comfort food.