Sometimes, all it takes is one visionary to change the course of a family's history. For decades, Maculan winery was a local favorite in Breganze, a small town in Veneto, Italy. That changed when Fausto Maculan set his sights beyond Italy, exploring the world's top wine regions and bringing fresh ideas back home.

His drive to craft top-quality wines for the export market transformed Maculan from a small-town producer into an internationally recognized name. Today, the winery is run by Fausto Maculan, along with his daughters Angela and Maria Vittoria.

During a virtual wine tasting, Angela Maculan, the company's Sales Director and Export Manager, shared her family's wines and the Breganze winemaking tradition with a small group of wine writers.

**Left to Right: Maria Vittoria, Fausto, and Angela.** *Photo: @Maculanwine*

"Our success comes from balancing tradition with innovation," Angela explained during our Zoom session. "We stay true to Breganze's soul while embracing modern techniques."

The Place

Established in 1969, the Breganze DOC stands geographically and stylistically apart from other Veneto wine regions. This northeastern Italian wine appellation, with its rolling hills of volcanic soil and mild climate, produces red, white, sparkling, and sweet wines, including the renowned Torcolato dessert wine from Vespaiolo, an ancient grape variety.

Located 33 miles (53 kilometers) from Treviso to the east and Verona to the west, Breganze has distinct rules for its wines. The whites, Breganze Bianco, must contain at least 50% Friulano, locally known as Tai. The DOC also permits wines produced from a single grape variety: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, and Vespaiolo.

For reds, Breganze Rosso must include at least 50% Merlot, while Cabernet Sauvignon, Marzemino, and Pinot Noir can be made as single-varietal wines but must comprise at least 85% of the stated grape variety.

The Winery

Founded in 1947, Maculan Winery was transformed when Fausto Maculan returned from his studies in Conegliano (a town famous for Prosecco) in the 1970s. A pioneer of quality Italian winemaking, Fausto revolutionized the family business by shifting from buying grapes to managing vineyards. During an era when most Italian wines were simple table wines, he boldly featured both the grape variety and his family name on the front label—setting a new standard for the region.

“He [Fausto Maculan] started a personal revolution, initially marked by many errors, which, over the course of time, turned into a wealth of experience and self-awareness.”

— Maculan website

Today, Maculan produces a diverse portfolio of wines that mix international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay with native treasures like Vespaiola and Tai. The winery stands on the global stage while maintaining deep roots in Breganze's traditions. Production includes elegant whites like Pino & Toi, bold reds such as Brentino and Palazzotto, and their flagship dry red blend, Fratta, alongside their renowned sweet wines Dindarello and Torcolato. You can find my tasting notes of these wines below.

The Great Classic: Torcolato

Only 14 producers in the world make Torcolato, all in Breganze. Maculan accounts for half of the production.

Maculan's Torcolato is the winery’s crown jewel—a passito (meaning a sweet wine made from partially dried grapes) made from Vespaiola grapes. Its name comes from “torcere” (to twist), referring to the tradition of braiding grape bunches for drying, intensifying their sugars and flavors.

The grapes are hand-harvested. After drying, they are gently pressed, fermented, and aged in small oak barrels.

"Torcolato embodies Breganze's soul," Angela explained. "It represents our history, craftsmanship, and patience."

A Bright Future

As Maculan thrives worldwide, its commitment to quality and innovation remains unwavering. “We honor our past,” says Maculan, “but we always look toward the future. Wine is alive, and so is our passion for making it better with each generation.”

Dry Wines Tasting Notes

Maculan Pino & Toi 2023. 60% Tai, 25% Pino Bianco, 15% Pinot Grigio. A wine of subtlety and finesse with crisp acidity, and earthy mineral notes of wet stone and graphite, as well as thyme and a pleasing grassiness. The round mouthfeel is subtly buttery but not in an unctuous way. Pair with a plate of oysters, sole with capers in a lemon beurre blanc sauce, or any simply prepared fish.

Maculan Brentino 2022. 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, dark fruit with oak, tar, black pepper, plum, and a hint of Sherry. Big and assertive, it would make a perfect accompaniment with short ribs, barbecued meats, a meat-based pasta dish, or lamb dishes.

Maculan Palazzotto Cabernet Sauvingnon 2021. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The cherry fruit is bright, young, and vibrant, with a hint of strawberry. As it opens up, it becomes big and impressive, with leather, tobacco, and oak notes, drinking like a Bordeaux. Its crispness makes it extremely gratifying, and its strong backbone could probably allow it to age for 25 years. After just 30 minutes, with a little air, it has expanded in power and excellence.

Maculan Fratta 2019. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown in the very best, low-yielding vineyards. A bold, fruit-forward wine with underlying notes of tar, cigar leaf, burnt plum, roasted meats, and oak. Dense, full-mouthed, powerful—a big, delicious wine.

Sweet Wines Tasting Notes

Maculan 2023 Dindarello. A straightforward sweet wine with notes of apricot, pineapple, lemon, and honey. Try it with apple pie, cheese, and maybe even a chocolate cake.

Maculan 2022 Torcolato. An interesting combination of slightly bitter fruit and a sweet apricot and honey. Hints of spicy white pepper plus a little funk, must and sherried notes on the nose. Complex and quite satisfying. Pairs beautifully with savory items like blue cheese and foie gras, or with sweet desserts such as fruit tarts, panettone, and apple crumble.