In Karen MacNeil’s book, The Wine Bible, she refers to the Spanish winery Vega Sicilia as “the bodegas that sparked a revolution.”

MacNeil notes that while most wineries in Ribera del Duero produced unremarkable wines during the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, Vega Sicilia had already begun crafting superb wines much earlier, setting a high standard that influenced the entire region's winemaking.

“By the mid-1990s,” she writes, “the wines coming out of the region were so shockingly good that some Spanish wine lovers suggested Ribera del Duero—rather than Rioja—might just be the finest wine region in Spain.”

Brief History

Vega Sicilia was founded in 1864 in northern Spain, two hours north of Madrid, by Don Eloy Lecanda Chaves. He returned from France with cuttings of Bordeaux vines and planted them alongside the local variety, known then as Tinto del Pais and now called Tinto Fino or, as you may know it, Tempranillo. This combination laid the foundation for Vega Sicilia’s early success.

However, the estate didn’t gain worldwide attention until after 1903, under the ownership of Antonio Herrero, whose wines won several awards at home and overseas. The property changed hands several more times before its acquisition by the Álvarez family in 1982, who have continued to build upon its historic legacy.

Today, three distinguished and highly-coveted wines are produced on the 250-acre organic estate: Unico, Unico Reserva Especial, and Valbuena 5º. All three are made primarily from Tempranillo, blended with smaller amounts of Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The two Unico wines come from older vines, some over 100 years old, while the Valbuena 5º grapes come from younger vines, with an average age of 25.

The company, now led by Pablo Álvarez, has established several other wineries and vineyards over the past four decades: Alión in Ribera del Duero, Pintia in Toro, Macán in Rioja (a partnership with French wine producer Benjamin de Rothschild), and its first venture outside of Spain, Oremus in Tokaj, Hungary. The collection of wineries now falls under the Tempos Vega Sicilia umbrella.

**A match made in heaven, Unico and Valbuena 5º** **with charcoal-grilled rump and crispy french fries.** *All photos by Lisa Denning*.

**Rioja Macán wines were delicious with ash-baked beets.**

Taking Care of The Land

Bodegas Vega Sicilia gained organic certification in 2023, but the vineyards have not seen herbicides or chemical fertilizers for over 30 years, with goats and sheep providing natural fertilization.

The vineyards of Pintia, Alión, and Macán are also farmed organically, while at Oremus, they are still striving for organic farming, a challenging endeavor due to Tokaj's humid climate.

Tempos Vega Sicilia also utilizes other sustainability methods, such as reducing water consumption, recycling water, and planting trees to decrease its carbon footprint. Over the last twenty years, they have planted 500,000 oak trees, 60,000 cork oaks, and 10,000 walnut trees at Vega Sicilia. The plan is to eventually use the cork from the cork trees to stopper the bottles.

The Wines

Alvarez has devoted his life to the relentless pursuit of perfection, becoming one of the most influential figures in the world of wine. During a recent press lunch at Hawksmoor Steakhouse in New York City, Pablo Alvarez was in attendance, sharing several of the latest releases of Tempos Vega Sicilia to the delight of everyone at the table.

**Oysters and Oremus dry Furmint… a dreamy combo!**

**Crispy battered shrimp, a great pairing with Oremus Petracs.**

Below are brief tasting notes of each wine tasted.

Oremus Mandolás Furmint 2021 ($43.99 SRP) Notes of honey and apricot on the nose, round and creamy on the palate, with a hint of oak. Great acidity and a long, lovely, honeyed finish. Fantastic with oysters.

Click here to Read more about Oremus in my article on Grape Collective

Oremus Petracs Furmint 2020 ($139.99). Fresh and lively, round and creamy; no apparent oaky flavors. A bit more full-bodied than the Mandolás. This is a wine for food.

Macán Clásico 2020 Rioja ($72.99). 100% Tempranillo. Lively and vibrant with earthy and savory notes balanced by subtle fruit (strawberries and raspberries); dusty tannins, medium acidity, medium length. 40 to 50% new oak is used, but you would never consider it an “oak bomb.” Delicious with roasted beets, pickled fennel, and horseradish.

Macán 2019 Rioja ($119.99). 100% Tempranillo. Aromas of blackberries; a bit spicy, yet delicate and elegant on the palate. Great with a beef popover appetizer, but would go well with full-flavored cheeses and other meats like chili-rubbed baby back ribs, lamb burgers, and balsamic glazed skirt steak.

Vega-Sicilia Valbuena 5º 2019 ($249.99) 90% Tempranillo, 3% Merlot. Fruity nose of red and blue berries, followed by a balanced palate, fruity and savory with dusty tannins. Fresh, not overripe, despite 2019 being a very warm vintage. A powerful yet elegant wine with a pureness of fruit that’s drinking beautifully now (decanted) but can be cellared for at least 25 years. Pair with rich stews and aged cheeses.

Vega-Sicilia Unico 2014 ($659.99). Aromas of cherry and cocoa with hints of tobacco, dried grass, and vanilla oak. Balsamic, earthy, and savory notes on the palate mingle beautifully with the cherry fruit notes. Delicately structured with a lengthy finish. Try it with grilled steak and porcini mushrooms or Moroccan spiced leg of lamb.

Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2022 ($45.99). Intense floral aromas, reminiscent of Moscato, along with lychee and lemon peel. On the palate, sweet and honeyed with apricot. Balanced, fresh, and silky without being heavy. Pairs well with savory and sweet dishes, from classic ceviche to apple crisp.

Oremus Aszú Puttonyos 2017 ($111.99). A classic sweet wine of Hungary made from botrytised Aszú berries, the wine is a perfect lively balance between sugar (sweetness) and acidity. Light golden in color with notes of apricot and honey, dense and textured. Would go well with creamy lobster dishes, or with caramel or fruit-based desserts like pineapple cake, especially if topped with coconut ice cream and rum sauce, as we enjoyed.