“On Mount Etna, we do things differently. No one serves you crackers and expects you to be happy about it. We don’t show you pictures of the vines, we walk through them. We won’t point at a poster and say, ‘That’s the winery.’ We’ll bring you there, open a few bottles, have a conversation, and enjoy a leisurely meal. On Etna, you’re a guest. No doubt, by the end of the visit, you’ll also be a friend.”

— Benjamin Spencer, journalist and winemaker, in The New Wines of Mount Etna

On the eastern side of Sicily lies Mount Etna, the world's most active volcano and Europe's largest. At a towering height of 10,921 feet and a base circumference of 87 miles, the volcano looms large over the landscape like a mythical fairytale creature whose awe-inspiring majesty is filled with potential danger.

The local Etneans lovingly embrace this fiery beast, referring to it as “Mongibello,” the beautiful mountain, or simply “Muntagna,” the mountain. Life in the tranquil communities around Mount Etna reflects a strong bond with nature and wine growing, yet the fragility of life is a constant reminder. The fertile soil and stunning landscape boost the local economy, but eruptions can disrupt daily life and damage property.

Planning a trip to Sicily?

My first visit to Mount Etna and its wineries was in October 2022 with my friend and fellow wine writer Marisa Finetti and her husband Craig, a videographer. Marisa later wrote an article about our thrilling afternoon hiking the volcano in Wine Enthusiast titled “Explosive Nature: Hiking Mt. Etna Offers an Up-Close View of Sicily’s Volcanic Terroir.”

In September 2023, I returned as a guest of the Etna DOC wine consortium for “Etna Days,” an annual international press event whose program included a terrific lineup of seminars, tastings, and visits to wineries.

While the entire island of Sicily is worth your time, visiting Mount Etna is a must-do. But plan ahead! The region's popularity has soared, attracting travelers eager to explore its world-class wines and rich cultural heritage.

Eleven Etna Wineries to Visit

1) La Gelsomina

La Gelsomina Farmhouse is a unique retreat that blends hospitality with vineyards, orchards, and olive groves. Its six charming guestrooms have outdoor patios that overlook steep, terraced vineyards—a perfect spot to enjoy the sunrise with a steaming cup of coffee.

Although I was only there for one night, I wish I could’ve stayed for a week. The property is absolutely spectacular, with its lush grounds a perfect vantage point for distant views of the sea and mountains. With the help of Gelsomina staff, you can make excursions to Mount Etna, Taormina, and the Sicilian coast or simply relax at the winery’s gorgeous grounds, sipping delicious wines—the day is yours to choose: full of adventure or relaxation.

And no worries if you can’t spend the night. The winery also accepts visitors for tours and wine tastings paired with local cheeses, salumi, and olive oils.

Learn more about the farmhouse, rooms, and winery by visiting lagelsomina.it.

**Gorgeous views are everywhere at La Gelsomina !**

2) Firriato - Cavanera Etnea

Firriato winery was established in the late ‘70s in Trapani, on Sicily’s western side. In the '90s, the company expanded to the slopes of Mount Etna by founding the Cavanera Etnea Wine Resort.

This stunning property has 21 modern rooms with breathtaking views of century-old vines and newer plantings, which guests can leisurely wander through. Another favorite activity is relaxing by the resort’s peaceful swimming pool, enjoying a glass of wine and the magnificent volcano views.

It's worth noting that Firriato is a Sicilian trailblazer in sustainable winemaking as Italy's first certified "zero impact" (carbon-neutral) winery. This achievement underscores Firriato's commitment to environmental responsibility, making it another reason to visit the winery. Guests can experience firsthand the eco-friendly practices while enjoying delicious wines in a beautiful setting.

Firriato’s Etna wine experiences, including tastings, vineyard and winery tours, and classes, are open to guests staying on the property and those wanting to come for a briefer visit. Go to cavanera.it for more information.

**a stroll through the centenarian vineyards leads you to the winebar where you can have a taste of what the grapes have created.**

**In the mood for some bubbles? The winery produces a terrific line of sparkling wines under their Gaudensius label.**

3)Tenuta Le Sciarelle

Located on the southeastern slopes of Mount Etna, Tenuta Le Sciarelle is one of three properties under the Tenute Mannino di Plachi umbrella, owned for six generations by the Mannino family. Le Sciarelle was their first winery, founded in 1730, and takes its name from “sciare,” meaning terraces made of lava.

The tasting room is in a historic palmetto, one of many stone structures once used to produce Etna wine. It’s also an agricultural museum dedicated to Sicily's traditions and viticultural heritage.

Wine-tourism packages include “Grape Plantation,” a guided tour through the vineyards that delves into the art of winemaking passed down through generations. Wine tastings, cooking classes, fine dining, corporate or private functions, and team-building events can be arranged for groups of 15 or more. Visit tenutemannino.com for more information.

Note: For accommodations, check out the company’s charming Catania property, Tenuta del Gelso, which has eight antique-furnished rooms and a swimming pool.

**In the vineyards with Giorgio Mannino. His father, Giuseppe Mannino was the president of the Etna DOC for over 10 years.**

**Entrance to Le Sciarelle’s ancient palmetto, now used as a tasting room and museum.**

4) Al-Cantàra

This low-key, family-owned winery exudes good vibes. Owner Pucci Giuffrida warmly welcomed our group of writers to his boutique winery, where, as he says, "poetry and art create wines that reflect the soul of the people and the land.”

Fittingly, a highlight of the visit was meandering through The Little Museum, a charming 1850 farmhouse housing 400 works by 300 artists. Over the years, the family has hosted artwork auctions, raising over 24,000 euros for needy children.

Al-Cantàra was awarded "Winery of the Year Gran Vinitaly 2023" and produces Etna wine from 12 acres of black lava sand and rock vineyards. The wine is crafted from Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Carricante. The company also experiments with Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, making small amounts of each.

To learn more, visit www.alcantara.it.

**Entrance to Al-Cantàra’s little museum.**

**Etna Bianco (white) made from a blend of Carricante and Grecanico.**

5) Benanti

The modern Benanti winery was founded in 1988 by Giuseppe Benanti, originally a pharmacist, whose mission was to produce top-quality wines exclusively from native grapes. Giuseppe’s scientific approach to Etna’s terroir and native grapes set him apart since, at that time, Mount Etna produced mostly bulk wines sent north to places like Piedmont and Bordeaux to add color, body, and alcohol to their cooler-climate wines.

Today, led by his sons Antonio and Salvino, Benanti is considered one of Italy’s finest wineries, and a visit to the winery’s elegant 1700s property in the southern area of the volcano should be at the top of any wine lover’s list. Benanti is the only producer who owns vineyards on every slope of the Etna DOC, and the wines represent Mount Etna as a whole.

Sparkling wine lovers will be happy to know that Benanti was the first producer of traditional method sparkling Etna wine, made exclusively from Carricante grapes. Today, the company produces three sparkling wines: two from Carricante and one from Nerello Mascalese.

Guided tours and wine tastings paired with local delicacies, created by the in-house chef, are offered every day except Mondays. For more information, visit benanti.it.

6) Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Marco de Grazia, owner of Tenuta delle Terre Nere, is a pioneer of modern Etna wines and the first to bottle single vineyard (contrade) wines from indigenous grapes, earning admiration for this once-overlooked region. Founded in 2002, the winery produces traditional red, white, and rosé wines on the volcano's northern slope. Their single vineyard Nerello Mascalese wines are benchmarks for Etna DOC wines.

De Grazia, a speaker at the opening event for Etna Days, used the word “gentility” to describe the wines of Mount Etna. “They are not very thick in color; they are not very powerful in body,” he said. “The nature of fine wine is discretion—it doesn’t need to raise its voice to make a point.”

Tenuta delle Terre Nere welcomes visitors to the estate by reservation from Monday to Friday. Visit tenuteterrenere.com for more information.

**Tasting table overlooking Terre Nere’s vineyards.**

**The beautiful hue of Terre Nere Etna Rosso.**

7) I Vigneri di Salvo Foti

Salvo Foti's name inevitably comes up when discussing the wines of eastern Sicily, particularly those from the soils of Mount Etna. A native of Catania, Foti began his enology career in 1981, advising renowned estates like Gulfi, Benanti, and ViniBiondi, whose wines are among Sicily's best.

However, Foti wanted his own project, leading to the creation of I Vigneri. This association combines Foti's extensive vineyard and winemaking experience with that of local vine experts and grape growers. They use chemical-free and ancient Sicilian winemaking techniques that respect the natural needs of the vine and result in long-lived plants that produce excellent-quality grapes.

Foti preserves the traditions of the wines and the people of Etna. "Our passion has always been cultivated in this place,” he says. “We were born under this volcanic terrain, and for us, making wine here today is full of possibility.”

The winery visit consists of a walk in the vineyards, a visit to the ancient winery, and a wine tasting. A limited number of guided tours are available. Visit the I Vigneri website for more information.

8) Vini Franchetti Passopisciaro

Andrea Franchetti is another of Mount Etna's modern winemaking pioneers. His arrival to Etna spurred the region’s viticultural renaissance and the international discovery of its wines. In 2001, he purchased the Passopisciaro property on the volcano’s northern slopes. He restored the abandoned vineyards, seeing the potential of the old vines planted in high altitudes where intense sunlight and cold nights make elegant, ethereal wines.

Winery visits range from a “Classic Vineyard Tour and Tasting” to “Etna According to Andrea Franchetti,” where you’ll explore the area’s ancient winemaking.

For more information and to book a tour, visit vinifranchetti.com or call +39 0942395449.

9) Donnafugata Cantina Randazzo

Donnafugata is one of Sicily’s most famous wineries and has played a big role in bringing international attention to Sicily’s wine scene. Established in 1851 by the Rallo family, Donnafugata is now in its fifth generation of family ownership.

Originally known for its Marsala wine from western Sicily, the company now operates five wineries across the island. The Etna one, established in 2016 on the northern slopes in Randazzo, is an oasis of terraces teeming with native herbs, greenery, vineyards, and ancient lava flows.

Donnafugata invites wine enthusiasts year-round to explore its vineyards and cellar, followed by a guided wine and food tasting in the small, colorfully decorated enoteca. For more on visiting Donnafugata’s Randazzo estate, visit donnafugata.it.

**I made a new friend in Donnafugata’s vineyards!**

**Pouring the Etna Rosato at Donnafugata’s enoteca.**

**Sorting the grapes inside the winery.**

10) Pietradolce

Pietradolce was established in 2005 by Michele Faro and his family who operate one of Sicily’s largest plant nurseries. They purchased several excellent plots of pre-phylloxera vines, aged 50 to 110 years, on Etna’s north slope, where the old, gnarly vines produce complex, aromatic wines with energy and power.

Faro says working with old vines isn’t easy because they produce a small amount of wine. “However,” he says, “These vines are the soul of Etna, and they give us high-quality juice to make elegant and concentrated wines.”

The property, lush with abundant plantings surrounding the vineyards, is a paradise of greenery. Additionally, the modern, art-filled winery is also a must-see. Jaw-dropping works by Italian artists that integrate natural, local elements like volcanic rocks, iron, wood, metals, and paper are everywhere, creating a unique blend of art with nature.

For more information and to request a visit, email info@pietradolce.it.

**owner Michele Faro standing with 120-year old vines..**

**The labels portray an elegant woman whose long hair forms the slopes of the volcano, a reference to the beauty and power of Mount Etna..**

11) Planeta Sciaranuova

“We are a family addicted to winemaking,” said Alessio Planeta as he greeted us at the Sciaranuova estate, so it wasn’t too surprising to learn that the Planeta family has been producing wine since the 1600s. Today, the company’s portfolio includes six wine estates across Sicily. Established in 2012, the Etna winery features beautifully restored old buildings and hosts the annual summertime Sciaranuova Festival in its vineyard theater.

Winery guests at the Sciaranuova estate can indulge in various tasting experiences, such as "The White Lotus: Wine, Art, and Landscape Grand Tour," inspired by the Netflix series The White Lotus, which was filmed at the winery. During this tour, visitors can enjoy a wine tasting and lunch sitting at the same table that the stars of the show did.

For more information and to request a visit: Planeta.it.

**Lava rock, vines and olive trees happily co-exist in Etna.**

**A heartfelt thank you to all the wineries who graciously hosted me and to Etna DOC and Sicilia DOC for sponsoring my visits to Sicily.**