Thanksgiving Wine Selection #2: Pinot Noir From Burgundy
/This is “Day Two” in my series of Thanksgiving wine recommendations—read on, because it’s a great one!
During Covid, when life was one big Zoom seminar, I met online with Philippe Pascal of Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, a biodynamic producer in Burgundy. His story intrigued me, and the winery he has created is a wine lover’s dream come true.
Here’s an excerpt from my article on Grape Collective:
Many people dream of leaving the corporate world behind to follow their passion, be it music, art, or wine, but few are bold enough to take the leap. Philippe Pascal, CEO for 18 years at French luxury group LVMH, had a longtime dream of owning a winery, and in 2004, he and his wife Catherine set off on a new adventure by purchasing Cellier aux Moines, a run-down property in Burgundy close to where Catherine had grown up.
During the early years of winery ownership, Pascal remained at LVMH, overseeing high-profile mergers and acquisitions on weekdays and helping manage the winery on weekends. After eight years of back-and-forth, at the age of 57, he retired from corporate life to focus solely on the winery.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is located in Givry, a small appellation in Côte Chalonnaise, just to the south of the renowned Côte d’Or. Planted with vines by Cistercian monks in 1130, the property's nine centuries of winemaking history is a testament to the spiritual and worldly traditions of the land and its people. When the Pascals first arrived in 2004, they were instantly smitten with the neglected old house and its incredible terrain.
Pascal’s corporate background, while helpful in running the business, did not prepare the couple for the many obstacles that nature presents, yet they quickly rose to the challenge. It took several years of hard work to restore the unkempt vineyards and dusty, old cellar, now updated as a modern, four-level gravity-fed winery.
In 2015, the Pascals hired Guillaume Marko, a young winemaker with extensive training in biodynamics, and with the aid of his expertise, began the transition to organic farming. In 2020, they became the first certified organic estate in Givry, and since 2017 the winery has continued to improve the vitality of the soil by the introduction of biodynamic methods.
The wine: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines 2017 Clos du Cellier aux Moines Givry Premier Cru.
This red wine is a fine example of Pinot Noir that comes from the Côte Chalonaise, an underrated wine-growing region in Burgundy located just south of the more heralded Côte d’Or. The Côte Chalonaise is made up of several small villages, including Givry, and produces wines that many believe are the true values of Burgundy.
The 2017 Clos du Cellier aux Moines is indeed a beautiful wine for the money ($59.99 at wine.com); certainly not cheap, but a bargain nonetheless, especially if you consider how the prices of wine from Burgundy’s top appellations have gone through the roof.
I shared this wine with a few friends and we were all blown away. It went beautifully with everything from asian-flavored tuna tartare to garlicky pasta with mushrooms.
Clos du Cellier aux Moines delivers a fragrant bouquet and great depth of flavor with a perfect balance between fruity elements, raspberry, strawberry and cherry, and savory, earthy ones: mushroom, leather, and stony minerals. Medium to full-bodied with fine, velvety tannins and lively acidity, the long finish leaves a hint of almonds and spices.
Delicious now, it should continue to improve in the next 5 to 10 years. Make sure to decant it about 45 minutes to an hour before serving so you can get the whole experience of this complex and nuanced wine.