Susumaniello (pronounced sue-sue-man-yell-oh) is a little-known ancient grape variety from sunny Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s boot, a dazzling landscape of olives, vines, and the sea. Its name means ‘little black donkey,’ a fitting tribute to a vine which, come harvest time, appears to almost struggle under the weight of abundant clusters of large grapes. With age, the vine’s productivity declines, yielding smaller berries of richly concentrated juice. Wines made from these older vines are endowed with great structure and an elaborate symphony of aromas.

Despite Susumaniello’s long-standing use in Puglia’s wine blends, many growers abandoned this low-yielding grapevine during the first half of the 20th century. At the time, the region’s wine industry, like many others, favored quantity over quality. But by the mid-1980s, with an increasingly sophisticated wine market, many Puglia winemakers were faced with decreasing sales. Looking to produce higher quality wines, they began to change their growing and vinification methods.

Owners Luigi Rubino and his wife, Romina Leopardi — **Owners Luigi Rubino and his wife, Romina Leopardi**

Enter winemaker Luigi Rubino. Rubino founded Tenute Rubino in 1999 in Puglia’s Brindisi area, using mostly native grapes, aside from a small amount of Chardonnay. A partnership with famous enologist Ricardo Cordarella, fostered Rubino’s interest in Susumaniello, now the heart of his winemaking vision.

After extensive studies concerning the proper farming of the variety, Rubino began making 100% Susumaniello wine. In the past, the grape was planted and harvested alongside other native Puglia red varieties like Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. This method put Susumaniello at a disadvantage since it ripens later than the other reds and therefore wasn’t picked at optimal ripeness.

Rubino told me that Susumaniello had never been thought of as a grape to make a wine on its own. “Nevertheless we started observing it,” he said, “and were convinced that, among the traditional native varieties of our area, it had something special to express.” Over time, he learned that the estate’s vineyards closest to the sea — with constant winds and sandy, well-drained soil — provided the best conditions for the cultivation of this ancient grape variety. “Susumaniello is, for our winery, today, the best expression of our territory,” says Rubino.

In 2002, Torre Testa, the first Tenute Rubino Susumaniello wine was released. It was immediately awarded a Tre Bicchieri, the highest distinction given to Italian wines by the popular Gambero Rosso wine guide. Made from 50 year old vines and produced only in the best vintages, Torre Testa is Tenute Rubino’s flagship bottling. Full of character when young, the wine develops even more personality with age. The lengthy barrel aging (at least a year in French oak) adds a hint of vanilla to the wine’s exceptional bouquet, yet the older wines still retain much of their youthful vigor. “All the tertiary aromas come through in a beautiful balance,” says Rubino of his aged wines. “Nonetheless, the wine does not lose its typicity of expressing mature red fruit and spices.”

**The beautiful garnet color of Torre Testa wine.**

Journalist Monica Larner, in the March 2020 edition of The Wine Advocate, writes enthusiastically of the 2016 Torre Testa (of which she gave 93/100 points), “The 2016 Susumaniello Torre Testa is beautifully ripe and plump, with thick layers of plum, dried blackberry and a touch of rum cake . . . Torre Testa made history in Southern Italy as one of the first internationally recognized expressions of the Susumaniello grape, and you get full-bodied appeal here with lots of ripe fruity fiber to wrap over the palate.”

Rubino’s favorite food pairing with the Torre Testa? “The perfect match,” he says, “is with structured dishes like pappardelle with meat sauce, grilled or roasted meat, and seasoned cheeses such as Canestrato Pugliese DOP.”

Tenuta Rubino Susumaniello wines, notably the Torre Testa, are a true testament to the inherent potential of Puglia’s native grapes. These gastronomic wines are meant to be savored, with good company and a great meal, whether outside at a casual summer barbecue, or fine dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant.

*Photo courtesy of Identita Golose Magazine*

In addition to Torre Testa, Tenute Rubino makes three other notable Susumaniello wines: Sumarè, a traditional method sparkling wine, Oltremè, a light-style red, and Torre Testa Rosé, a fresh and delicate pink wine.