The Facebook group Italian Food, Wine and Travel (#ItalianFWT) organized this dive into Super Tuscans. I hope you enjoy learning about these popular Italian wines. Don’t miss my fellow wine writers’ articles on this topic following my article.

The late Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta (photo courtesy of igwines). — **The late Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta** *(photo courtesy of igwines).*

The Super Tuscan wine story begins in the late 1940s with Italian nobleman Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta. The Marchese, trained as an agronomist, turned to winemaking after he and his wife inherited Tenuta San Guido, a neglected winery near the Tuscan coast. Inspired by the taste of fine Bordeaux wines, he began planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapevines — not grown in the area before — and named the vineyard Sassicaia, or field of many stones.

The Marchese hoped these foreign grapes would fare well in a land that had, for centuries, relied on the local Sangiovese grape to make its red wines. And so began the rustlings of what would become, thirty years later, the Super Tuscan movement.

And, yes, the nobleman’s grapes fared very well.

What is a Super Tuscan wine?

Super Tuscans are red wines from Tuscany (Toscana) that don’t follow the guidelines that delineate the grape varieties allowed in a particular region. Like all of the world’s major wine regions, Italy’s strict wine laws regulate the production of its wines, from the vineyard to the cellar. If the rules are not followed, the wine cannot be labeled with the designated wine area, from Barolo in the north to Taurisi in the south, and Chianti Classico in the middle.

In the 1970s, the rule-breaking going on at Sassicaia, located in the Bolgheri area of Tuscany, inspired the rebellion of many like-minded Chianti Classico producers. At the time, the region's strict labeling laws banned the use of non-indigenous varieties, and required the use of at least 10% of white grapes. Many producers believed the inclusion of white varieties led to inferior, overly-acidic wines and that the regulations limited their ability to create high-quality wine.

Like the Marchese before them, the disenchanted Chianti Classico producers were influenced by the elegant wines of Bordeaux and began planting non-native grape varieties including Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah to be used in blends with or without Sangiovese. They also purchased small French oak barriques for aging the wines, as was done in Bordeaux (and for Sassicaia), rather than the traditional large oak casks typically used throughout Italy.

One of the first Super Tuscans (although not yet called that) that came from the Chianti Classico area was made by Antinori whose 1971 Tignanello was a Sangiovese (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) blend. Many other top producers followed suit, but these new blends could only be labeled as a Vino da Tavola (table wine) since they didn’t follow the region’s wine rules.

The Term Super Tuscan is Created by American Journalists

The Vino da Tavola labeling denoted simplicity, yet these wines were anything but simple. It was the American press that, in the late ‘70s, coined the term “Super Tuscan” to indicate the high quality of these new Tuscan wines. Alessandro Cellai, general manager at two Tuscan wine estates, Castellare di Castellina in Chianti Classico and Rocca di Frassinello in Maremma, says that “the Super Tuscan category was born in the ‘70s to differentiate "basic" table wines from "top" table wines which were outside the designations of origin for the composition that included mostly international vines.”

A selection of top Super Tuscans. (Photo courtesy of therealreview.com). — **A selection of top Super Tuscans***. (Photo courtesy of therealreview.com).*

Word spread quickly about the wines and the popularity of Super Tuscans soared in the 1980s, particularly within the American market. In 1992, the Italian government created a new designation called IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) to indicate wines from a certain area, rather than of particular grape varieties, giving more status to the wines. Today, most Super Tuscans are labeled “IGT Toscana” and many are amongst Italy’s most prized wines. Coveted by wine connoisseurs worldwide for their full-bodied, opulent taste, Super Tuscans can easily be found on wine lists for hundreds of dollars a bottle.

I Sodi di San Niccolò, Not Your Typical Super Tuscan

Before the world went into lockdown, I caught up with Cellai at James Suckling’s Great Wines of Italy event. Cellai was pouring his 2015 Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolò, a blend of two native Tuscan grapes, Sangiovese (85%) and Malvasia Nera (15%). I Sodi di San Niccolò was created in 1977 as a Vino da Tavola (now IGT) since its exclusion of the mandatory white wine disqualified it for Chianti Classico labeling. The wine is unusual for the Super Tuscan category since it is made without any international varieties.

Since 1977, Tuscan wine laws have changed and Chianti Classico no longer requires the addition of white varieties. I Sodi di San Niccolò could now be labeled Chianti Classico DOCG, yet the winery continues to label it as IGT Toscana. Winery owner Paolo Panerai says, “It’s a wine that has always lived outside the appellation, and we liked the thought of a Super Tuscan that was born from only the local grapes.” [Jane Anson, Decanter September, 2017]

And while the popularity of the classic Bordeaux-style Super Tuscan lives on, there is, of late, rising consumer interest for wines made of native grapes. This trend bodes well for a wine like I Sodi di San Niccolò, a Super Tuscan whose grapes are a part of Tuscany’s ancient cultural heritage. Cellai says that I Sodi is the maximum expression of Sangiovese made in Castellina in Chianti. “In comparison with other Super Tuscans,” he says, “I Sodi di San Niccolò brings with it all the characteristics of the Sangiovese grape, expressing a typical Chianti terroir.”

And, indeed, the 2015 I Sodi, like other great Sangiovese wines, is full of exuberant fruit, refreshing acidity, soft tannins, and offers a long, enjoyable finish. I was curious why Malvasia Nera, an ancient red variety not commonly used in Tuscany anymore, was added to the wine. “Malvasia Nera is a wonderful grape variety that combines perfectly with Sangiovese,” Cellai said. “It has very velvety and balanced tannins which makes the wine perfectly enjoyable from the first years of life.”

Seafood and Super Tuscans? It’s a Match!

Some of my favorite wines to enjoy with a meal are Sangiovese-based. Even seafood can be a great combination with Super Tuscans if the dish has a hearty sauce. I asked Cellai if he thought I Sodi would pair well with Pasta with Scallops and Shrimp in a Tomato Mushroom Sauce. “I Sodi di San Niccolò would go perfectly with that dish,” he said. “But my favorite is with aged Pecorino cheese.”

I agree — you can never go wrong with bold red wine and aged cheese.

Don’t miss what my fellow writers had to say about Super Tuscan wines, below.

Super Tuscans, Take-Out Pizza, and a Spicy Summer Salad| This post comes to you from the kitchen magician behind Culinary Adventures with Camilla.
Super Tuscans: What’s It All About? | This question will be answered by the founder of #ItalianFWT, VinoTravels.
A Stop at Brancaia and a Pizza Night | A perfect combo from California’s own Somm’s Table.
Super rating, super price – Is this Super Tuscan super? | The question will be answered in full by My Full Wine Glass.
Have You Tried These Super Tuscans? | Get the opportunity to explore with The Wining Hour.
There’s no need to Fear, Super Tuscans are here! | Hear the heroic call from Our Good Life.
Are Super Tuscans still relevant and worth my time and money?| Find out all there is to know with Crushed Grape Chronicles.
Cooper’s Hawk: A Great Concept and a Super Super Tuscan | Get the inside scoop on this treat from A Day In the Life on the Farm.
I Colazzi and a Big Ol’ Steak | Don’t miss this outstanding combo from Joy of Wine.
No Super Tuscans for Me! | The point of view from FoodWineClick is super clear.
Super Tuscans: Keep Your Sassicaia, I’ll take the Sangiovese | A message from WinePredator to all readers.
Supertuscan Is All About The Name, Not In The Wine | According to an Italian wine expert, GrapeVine Adventures.
Looking Beyond the Name Super-Tuscans | Insight from Avvinare that goes deeper than the title.