Italian Wine With Indian Food? You Bet!
/The aroma of cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves wafting through a kitchen is enough to transport anyone to the bustling streets of India. These warm, aromatic spices are the heart and soul of this chicken recipe, inspired by a memorable winemaker lunch at Junoon, a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in New York City.
The lunch, hosted by Marta Galli, third generation of Le Ragose winery, proved an excellent pairing of northern Italy’s Valpolicella wines with bold Indian flavors.
Galli shared a variety of her family’s wines with a small group of writers, and we got to sip on these fruity yet well-balanced wines while enjoying some expertly spiced dishes. It was amazing how the hint of sweetness—at least the perception of it since these are dry wines—really clicked with the Indian spices. It made for a fantastic match that brought out the best in the wine and the food.
Galli was named after her grandmother, who co-founded Le Ragose with her husband in 1969. The senior Marta Galli played an important role in reviving Valpolicella’s reputation as one of Italy’s top wine-producing regions. In 1990, she was awarded ‘Winemaker of the Year’ by her peers. Her work, during a time when women winemakers were rare, earned her the nickname ‘La Signora del Vino.’
During lunch, the younger Marta Galli described Le Ragose’s property as an amphitheater-like terrace with breathtaking views of Valpolicella's mountains and Lake Garda.
"One of the most important things about Le Ragose is where we are," she explained. "We're at one of the highest elevations in Valpolicella. You need to be up in the hills to make good quality Valpolicella wines."
This stunning view sets the stage for a winemaking philosophy rooted in tradition and patience. "We prefer to keep our wines in our cellar for long periods, releasing them only when they are deemed ready. The Amarone, for example, ages a minimum of 5 years."
Marta noted, however, that their commitment to tradition has sometimes put them at odds with trends. "In years when the trend was for high concentration, high residual sugar, very powerful, heavy wines,” says Galli, “we were out of fashion. We have always made dry, elegant wines because it has traditionally been the style of the Valpolicella region."
Inspired by the lunch with Marta Galli, I created this easy Indian-spiced chicken recipe and paired it with Le Ragose Valpolicella Ripasso 2020 (SRP $26). The balanced fruit, spice, and structure of the wine paired perfectly with the dish’s layers of fragrant spices, illustrating how the combination of great food and wine can transform a meal into an exciting cross-cultural adventure.
A Word on Valpolicella Ripasso
Ripasso wine is made by adding skins left over from Amarone production to basic Valpolicella wine, which causes a second fermentation. This process results in a more complex red wine that's fuller-bodied and richer in flavor and color than the basic Valpolicella. Some call Ripasso "baby Amarone" because it shares the fresh taste of Valpolicella with the dried raisin notes of Amarone.
Chicken With an Indian Accent
Serves 4
4 skin-on, bone-in chicken breasts
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons each of ground cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves
2 medium onions, chopped
6 scallions, chopped
2 cups cleaned and sliced mushrooms (any kind you like)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon flour
1/2 cup red wine
1 cup chicken stock
Instructions
1) Place the chicken in a large bowl. Rub 1 tablespoon of the oil all over it. In a small bowl, mix together salt, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves. Rub spice mixture all over chicken, including under the skin. This can be done several hours beforehand or at the last minute if you don't have time to wait.
2) Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pan over high heat until shimmering. Add chicken and sauté until browned, about 4-5 minutes per side. Remove chicken to a plate.
3) Reduce heat to low and add onions and scallions to the pan. Sauté until lightly browned, stirring frequently, about 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in mushrooms and sauté another 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook one minute. Mix in 1 tablespoon flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, then add red wine and chicken stock and simmer for a few minutes.
4) Return chicken and any juices to the pan. Cover and cook on very low heat (a gentle simmer) for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the chicken’s thickness.
4) Serve chicken with your favorite vegetables and rice cooked in equal parts water and unsweetened coconut milk.