Did you know that Croatia is making some of the most exciting wines in the world? This beautiful land of mountains and highlands with an Adriatic coastline has hosted a wine culture dating back at least 2,500 years. The country now boasts over 800 wineries, 20,000 winemakers, and 64 distinct grape types, many of which are indigenous and have been cultivated for centuries in Croatia.

However, with names like Pošip, Plavac Mali, and Babić, Croatian grape varieties can be hard to remember and pronounce. But don’t let that intimidate you—these are wines that are worth the extra effort.

Croatia has four main wine regions, each with different climates, geographical features, traditions, and local grape varieties: Dalmatia, Istria and Kvarner, Croatian Uplands, and Slavonia and Danube. In each locality, you will find wine that expresses the unique Croatian terroirs.

The Land of Good Wine

Some of the most beautiful Croatian wines come from Istria, a peninsula at the northwestern end of the country’s Adriatic coastline. The region, still largely undiscovered by the world’s wine-drinking population, is one of Croatia’s most important wine growing areas.

Almost fully surrounded by the sea, Istria enjoys a lovely Mediterranean climate with superb growing conditions for vines. Most of the wineries are located in western Istria, with the majority being small, family-owned farms. The locals’ pride in their wine can be found on the area's road signs stating, “Istria, the land of good wine.”

Istria’s leading white grape is Istria Malvasia, which covers 60% of the area’s total vineyard plantings and makes all types of wine, from sparkling to still and dessert. There are two main styles of Istria Malvasia: those that see only stainless steel before bottling and those aged in wooden barrels. The first makes young, zesty wines with fresh, fruity aromas and soft, round acidity. In contrast, the second makes complex wines with rounder texture and the ability to remain fresh and lively for up to about 10 years.

As for Istria’s red wine, Teran is the leading variety, usually giving darkly-colored, aromatic wines with a tart taste of wild herbs and fresh berries: raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries. The best examples are full-bodied with high acidity, significant tannins, and great aging potential.

You’ll often see Teran blended with Merlot to balance its wilder side and make a more approachable wine when young. Blends of Teran with international varieties are sometimes called Superistrians, paying homage to Italy's well-known Super Tuscan blends. They embrace a modern approach to winemaking while keeping their distinct Istrian character.

**In the Vineyards with wine producer Marko Fakin.** *Photo courtesy of @fakinwines.*

Winery Spotlight

I recently caught up with Marko Fakin of Fakin Winery, located at the bottom of Istria’s medieval town of Motovun, surrounded by gorgeous vineyards. Fakin is one of the leading wineries on the peninsula, making stunning Malvasia and Teran from 30 hectares of vineyards (about 75 acres) that have earned the winery an abundance of awards.

After meeting Marko and tasting his white and red wines, I wondered how they would pair with a meal. After time spent in the kitchen, I can report that Fakin’s Malvasia 2021, paired with seafood, and his Teran 2021, served with a hearty soup, were excellent accompaniments to dinner at home. The white was crisp and lively with an appealing bitterness on the finish, while the red was bold and full-bodied with dark berry fruit notes and hints of cedar and tobacco.