Celebrating Four Inspiring Women in Wine
/Women’s History Month 2023 may be winding down, but that doesn’t mean the story ends here. We should continue recognizing female contributions to society all year and look toward the future with hope for gender equality. I think we would all agree that diversity in the wine world, or any world, is positive, bringing new and valuable perspectives.
And while Women’s History Month has been held annually in the United States since 1987, the issue of gender inequality is international, especially in the workplace. Women continue to struggle to reach the top echelons; however, the gender gap is narrowing, and a new wave of females in top management can be found in every area of wine production, from the vineyards and cellars to the corner offices.
In celebration of Women’s History Month, here are some thoughts on equality in the workplace from four remarkable women in wine who are paving the way for the next generation.
Remi Cohen, CEO Domaine Carneros, Napa Valley, California
Remi Cohen’s first wine jobs were in the vineyards and cellars, but it was her interest in winery operations that led her to switch roles, eventually taking on the role of Vice President and General Manager of Cliff Lede winery. Today, Remi is one of the rare females who has reached the corner office of winery management, running Domaine Carneros, one of Napa’s top traditional-method sparkling wine producers.
When she started her career, Cohen says she didn’t give a lot of thought to gender. “I felt that the hard work had been done by the generation before me: Eileen Crane, Mary Maher in the viticulture world, Heidi Barrett, and Cathy Corison, to name a few,” she says. “I may have occasionally experienced microaggressions, but I always felt very fortunate throughout my early career to have worked for several male mentors, such as Michael Richmond at Bouchaine, who supported my career advancement.”
Later in her career, Cohen realized there were times when her pay or title was not commensurate with men with similar jobs. “When I see the data from recent surveys on the ongoing disparity in compensation and advancement of women,” says Cohen, “I realized there is more work to be done to create quality, not only with gender but also diversity in general.”
Cohen says there is a fairly even distribution of men and women at entry-level positions but less equality in the higher ranks. “From senior winemaking to executive positions,” she says, “you see more of a disparity in the number of women and the compensation for women versus men. Women are not advancing either due to the industry being less accommodating to women as they start families or women not being selected for the senior roles.”
Cohen recommends that women surround themselves with mentors in supportive work environments, such as the one at Domaine Carneros, founded in 1987 by Champagne Taittinger, whose President, Vitalie Taittinger, is a woman.
“When I interviewed with Domaine Carneros two and a half years ago,” says Cohen, “it was apparent that the company and the family ownership were poised to continue the legacy of female leadership that began with hiring Eileen Crane as founding winemaker in 1987. To this day, over half of our management team are women, which serves as a great foundation for our diversity efforts.”
Cohen has another vital piece of advice for women entering the wine industry: to be their own advocate. “It is especially important for women in traditionally male-dominated industries to know their value, to work hard, and ask for roles and compensation commensurate with their contributions and industry standards,” says Cohen.
As for the future, Cohen looks forward to no longer having to say that a person is a ‘woman’ winemaker because an individual’s merits and contributions come before their gender or race. “There is still a lot of work to be done,” she says, “so that women, people of color, and especially women of color, are encouraged to join and advance in this amazing industry and are given the same opportunities.”
Stevie Kim, Managing Director of Vinitaly International, Verona, Italy
For Stevie Kim, a native New Yorker, entering the wine world in Italy was challenging as both a woman and an Asian. “The fact that I didn’t have any formal wine training or background in the sector didn’t help either. Many people questioned why this Korean-American woman should be representing Italian wine when there were so many “real” Italian ambassadors to choose from.”
Kim says that work, as in life, is full of compromises. “I had to learn to meet the skeptics halfway,” she says, “respecting the cultural norms but at the same time sharing my ideas and challenging how things had been done in the past.
She admits that not being an Italian man could sometimes work in her favor. “People often tended to underestimate me,” she says. “Being an outsider gave me a different perspective. It allowed me to challenge the status quo and ask questions others were sometimes too afraid to ask, often for fear of appearing stupid.”
Still, it wasn’t easy for Kim, who had to be “assertive, even loud at times,” which was sometimes interpreted as aggression. “While outspoken men are seen as passionate or charismatic,” says Kim, “when women are assertive in the workplace, they are often labeled as abrasive or bossy.”
Much of Kim’s inspiration comes from women: her sister, her colleagues, and the young women who come to work with her. “Two women, in particular, come to mind as role models in the wine world: Maggie Henriquez, former president of Krug Champagne, and Marilisa Allegrini, the so-called lady Amarone of Italian wine. They are both incredibly savvy businesswomen who lead with passion and generosity.”
As a leader in Italian wine education and marketing, Kim says she doesn’t focus on gender. “I hire based on each individual’s merits,” she says, “choosing those most suited for the job, regardless of gender, race, or age. That said, more than 60% of my staff are female, a figure I’m proud of in a so-called male-dominated industry. However, I’m just as proud of the fact that my office is multi-national, multi-ethnic, and multi-generational, one that embraces diversity in all its forms. It’s this diversity, I believe, that gives our work such creativity and a cutting edge.”
Kim says she hopes her daughters and the Millenials and GenZs she works with will have “much less to contend with in the future.”
Her advice to women starting out? “Choose a winery that matches your needs,” says Kim. “It doesn’t have to be a world-renowned winery in the most prestigious wine region,” she says. “Instead, choose one that will give you the headspace and experience you need.”
And to be curious but respectful, humble, and hard-working.
“Remember that you can learn from everyone,” says Kim. “Make suggestions but accept that you’ll often meet resistance and welcome feedback gracefully. Be yourself – they’ve taken you on for a reason—take confidence from that. Remember, this is just your first step in what will hopefully be a long and fruitful career, so roll up your sleeves and dig in!”
Roberta Bricolo, Owner, Cantina Gorgo, Custoza, Veneto, Italy
Born into a winemaking family, Bricolot’s passion for wine was deeply ingrained by a happy childhood in the vineyards. Practicing law as an adult, she realized her heart was in the world of wine and returned home to take the reins of her parent’s winery. Under her guidance, Cantina Gorgo’s vineyards, which spread across the rolling hills east of Lake Garda, have been certified organic, showing her strong commitment to safe and healthy agriculture. Bricolo is also the first female elected as President of the Custoza DOC, the regulatory board for the area's wines.
Bricolo often encounters sexism in her working life, despite her many accomplishments. “When I say that I am 100 percent owner of my company,” she says, “I am frequently asked if there is a man at my side—a brother, father, or husband who shares the management of the business.”
Education and training can change the chauvinistic narrative, she says. “Mothers, schools, and institutions must educate on equality,” says Bricolo. “The family example and social and cultural models can make a difference in the growth of the men and women of tomorrow.”
Bricolo also points out that the welfare system needs to be rethought since, as it is, women bear the brunt of caregiving, making it difficult to hold top-level jobs.
“Like many other women,” she explains, “I became a mother and, despite the shared roles within my family, I found myself managing the care of family members. I had to rely on private nurseries, domestic helpers, and private healthcare facilities to continue working. I was able to bear the financial burden thanks to my role as an owner and entrepreneur. However, better welfare services will ensure that all women can cope and continue in their professions, holding roles equal to those of men.”
Bricolo notes that while women remain a minority, in numbers and roles, in the vineyard and the cellar, they play decisive roles in the wine world as collaborators, agents, press officers, and marketing managers. Furthermore, she says, women are the world’s leading wine buyers, making more than half of all wine purchases.
A piece of advice for women starting at a winery? “Study and continue to grow professionally because competence makes you feel more confident to take on challenges,” says Bricolo. “Believe in yourself, and use all your strengths without reservation.”
Alice Tétienne, Cellar Master and Vineyards Director, Champagne Henriot
Champagne Henriot is a family-owned business founded in 1808 by a woman, Apolline Henriot. Today, Alice Tétienne, a native Champenoise, holds the prestigious job of Cellar Master and Vineyards Director for the famous Champagne House.
Tétienne’s inspiration came from her grandmother, who coincidentally owned a vineyard in the same area as Apolline’s first vineyard. She says it’s an honor to follow in Apolline’s footsteps at Henriot.
“Women have always been important to Champagne,” says Tétienne. “In 2005, Henriot’s prestige Cuvée was renamed Hemera, the Greek goddess of daylight, as a nod to the importance of women for the House. A few women, like Apolline Henriot, have established their own Champagne Houses, yet women are rarely found in leadership roles in the industry. I was lucky enough to work with respectful and inspiring colleagues throughout my career, but since there are still a small number of women in top roles, it can feel a bit lonely sometimes too.”
Alice believes that significant progress towards gender equality in the champagne industry is being made, beginning at the winemaking schools where more women than men are enrolled.
“Education about the type of work available has also significantly opened up opportunities to women in the industry,” says Tétienne. “After graduating high school in 2008, I studied in an agricultural and viticultural school where I was one of the few women, but there was a real desire from the school to be more inclusive.”
What advice does Tétienne give young women starting work at a winery? “My advice is to be yourself, follow your passion, and be considerate of others, regardless of gender.”
Matilde Poggi, Owner Le Fraghe winery, Bardolino, Veneto, Italy
Matilde Poggi grew up in a grape growing family, but rather than join the family business, she forged her own path when she was just 22, creating Le Fraghe winery.
“It was hard at the beginning to earn people’s trust as I was very young,” she says. “I joined the Associazione Donne del Vino (Association of Wine Women) in 1988 as soon as it was founded. It was very nice to share experiences with other women winemakers.”
Poggi says things have changed since she started nearly 40 years ago and that many more women are involved in the business, “not only in sales or PR but also in the vineyards and winemaking.” However, as Bricolo stated, Poggi recognizes that most family caregiving remains on women’s shoulders, and so she “accords her female employees “more flexibility in their timetable if they have small children or elderly parents to take care of.”
Like Cohen, Poggi hopes that in 10 years, the conversation about women in wine will be a non-issue, and we will no longer need to speak about it.
Poggi’s advice to women starting at a winery? To never be scared and to have confidence in their ideas. “It is very important not to follow trends or make wines based on market demands. We will succeed if we make wines with a good connection to our terroir, expressing our own ideas of wine.”