Cookbook Review: The Oldest Kitchen in the World—4,000 Years of Middle Eastern Cooking Passed Down Through Generations
/The best cookbooks offer more than recipes—they tell the stories of the people behind them, their heritage, and their struggles. That’s exactly what makes The Oldest Kitchen in the World by Matay de Mayee such a treasure.
I first heard about this book from my daughter Jolie, who met de Mayee in Amsterdam when she and a friend rented an Airbnb in his home. Jolie is someone who lives for her next meal (like mother, like daughter!), so it’s no surprise that the topic of food came up when she first met de Mayee.
Having recently published his cookbook, he shared with Jolie the inspiration behind it: his mother, who he lovingly calls “the world’s best Assyrian chef.” When Jolie mentioned that her mother runs The Wine Chef (perhaps adding that I’m one of her greatest inspirations!), de Mayee’s publisher sent me a copy of this gorgeous tribute to Assyrian cooking.
Filling a Void in Culinary History
At its heart, this cookbook is a love letter to de Mayee’s mother. While her hands brought the recipes to life, he wrote them down—a duty she could not fulfill herself, having grown up in a time and place where girls weren’t taught to read or write.
“She is essentially the author of this cookbook,” says de Mayee.
The recipes, filled with cultural pride, come from both of their hearts, though.
De Mayee’s parents fled their homeland in the late 1960s due to religious persecution and started a new life in the Netherlands, where he was born. However, despite his Dutch upbringing, de Mayee and his family have not lost their connection to their Assyrian roots. They proudly maintain their language, traditions, and customs.
With The Oldest Kitchen in the World, de Mayee preserves the flavors, techniques, and hospitality of Assyrian cooking for future generations. He explains that despite being one of the world’s oldest cuisines, the recipes have been passed down orally, leaving a gap in culinary literature.
Reflecting on how he and his six siblings barely know how to recreate their mother’s Assyrian dishes, de Mayee says, “Perhaps we had too many distractions, or perhaps one naturally becomes lazy when growing up with a mother who cooks so deliciously.”
A Celebration of Family and Hospitality
In the book, de Mayee describes his mother’s bustling kitchen, where she cooked for seven children and constant guests. Assyrian hospitality, he explains, is inseparable from its cuisine: “No Assyrian household is complete without a well-stocked pantry and an even more abundant table.”
He shares how his mother’s cooking skills were honed under the watchful eye of her mother, who believed cooking well was essential for finding a good husband. Ironically, de Mayee notes, his father, a former military cook, did not care whether or not his mother could cook since he enjoyed cooking.
De Mayee admits he doesn’t have the time his mother had to spend in the kitchen, but he hopes this book will inspire others to discover Assyrian cooking.
He has certainly inspired me!
As I flipped through the recipes, something delicious jumped out at me on nearly every page. The stunning photographs also help bring the flavors and traditions of Assyrian cuisine to life. Each recipe includes anecdotes and cultural context; each image is an invitation to gather around the table and share a feast.
A few recipes that stood out to me include Honey-Roasted Figs with Goat Cheese, Spiced Lentil Stew, Upside-Down Savory Pie (Maqloubeh), and Leg of Lamb with Garlic, Paprika, and Allspice (Dobo). I can’t wait to try them, and I have earmarked a few others for this year’s holiday fish dinner, like Whitefish with Saffron, Mint, Dill, and Peas (Nuno Zafaran).
As Matay beautifully concludes, the dining table is the heart of Assyrian culture and a symbol of togetherness and hospitality. “All I can say now is: enjoy! Or, in other words, HANIYE!”
This book is a perfect gift for anyone who loves exploring new culinary adventures. It can be found on amazon.com (In hardcover at $23). Haniye!