A Champagne Worthy of its Name, an Homage to a Greek Goddess

In Greek mythology, Hemera was the goddess of daylight. She brightened the dark with her morning greeting over the earth, pulling back the black curtains of Erebos (a place of darkness) and letting her light shine through. Isn’t it fitting, then, that one of the finest champagnes is named after this Greek goddess of daylight? Sipping on Champagne Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2005 is like soaking in a bit of sunshine — be it the radiant light of a warm summer day or the crisp, near-blinding sunlight reflecting off freshly-fallen winter snow. 

Two Centuries of Excellence

Champagne Henriot is considered one of the jewels of the Champagne region. It was founded in 1808 by Apolline Henriot, an enterprising woman who brought her family’s knowledge of viticulture to the commercial market. Soon after being widowed, with a strong will and some of the most valued vineyards in Champagne, Apolline created the Veuve Henriot Ainé brand. It quickly became a huge success, not only in France, but throughout all of Europe, most notably within the royal courts of Austria, Holland and Hungary.

Today, Henriot produces seven unique variations of champagne, the world’s most cherished sparkling wine. And while most of the well-known champagne houses are owned by huge corporations, Henriot is one of the few remaining family-owned brands, managed for over two centuries by family members who have passed down their knowledge and traditions for generations. Decanter Magazine’s Stephen Brook sees a genuine commitment to quality in the family-run businesses of the Champagne region. “It is surely no coincidence,” he says, “that some of the best Champagnes are made by houses dominated by single families.”

Terroir Plus Aging — It’s What Makes the Henriot Hemera 2005 so Special

Hard at work in the vineyards (photo: @champagnehenriot on instagram).

The Henriot Hemera 2005 was introduced to the market in 2018, where it quickly caught the attention of the wine press. Decanter’s champagne specialist Michael Edwards declared it a “perfectionist creation of Henriot’s villages, all grand crus,” a reference to the desirable vineyards from which the grapes hail: small villages within the areas known as the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims. Hemera’s special blend consists of equal amounts of two grape varieties: Pinot Noir, providing strength and body, and Chardonnay, bringing freshness, delicacy and finesse. 

Cuvée Hemera is also notable for its long aging time. French law requires that vintage wines like this one (made from grapes of only one year's harvest) be aged a minimum of three years, yet Cuvée Hemera quietly rests underground in Henriot’s chalky cellars for 12 years on its lees (the spent yeast). The dark caves, with their ideal temperature and humidity, provide perfect conditions for the wine to develop, over time, richness of texture, along with a multitude of flavors. The Hemera 2005 retails for about $199 and can be found on wine-searcher.com.

When I first tasted Henriot’s Cuvée Hemera 2005 (in 2019), I was wowed by its youthfulness — after all, it had spent twelve years en tirage and another two in the bottle (post-dégorgement) before reaching my lips! Yet, like a confident and charming woman of a certain age, it had held onto a zesty playfulness, one that complements a well-earned complexity.

Its distinctive notes of almond, brioche and honey, intermingled with crisp citrus fruits (lemon, lime) and baked apples, are all wrapped up in a hint of minerality and with a vivid, laser like acidity. This is a wine that cries out for the right food.

A Light-Filled Pairing to Ring in a (Hopefully) Brighter New Year. 

The Cuvée Hemera is, as the French would say, is a “gastronomic” wine, one that pairs well with food, particularly sophisticated cuisine, like Steak Diane, an indulgent dish that’s perfect for a stay-at-home New Year’s Eve celebration. The dish can also be made with chicken, duck or pork, and, if you have leftovers, the sauce is fabulous atop pasta. 

Not a steak eater? Check out these other foods that are a great match with Cuvée Hemera 2005.

Two Other Favorites

In addition to the Cuvée Hemera, Champagne Henriot offers 6 other champagnes, including two of my favorites, Brut Souverain and Blanc de Blancs NV:

Henriot Brut Souverain ($45) When my friend Lori had a “big” birthday celebration a few years ago, I brought a magnum of this to share at the table, and it was a hit. Brut Souverain has been produced since the winery’s founding, and I’ll bet those kings and queens were drinking it every day back then! A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier, the wine is aged a minimum of three years. This is an elegant, well-balanced champagne that shows lots of bright acidity, as well as intense flavors, beginning with a wonderful toasty brioche note.

Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV ($65) This was the champagne I poured for my “big” birthday celebration last month with family and we enjoyed every sip. Henriot is known for its use of the elegant Chardonnay grape and this wine is a pure expression of the grape, with fresh aromas and a mineral touch. Full-bodied and powerful on the palate, with notes of toasted brioche, green apple, citrus fruits and honey, it’s supported by lots of tiny bubbles and a long finish. For a non-vintage, this is among the very best on the market, a real treat to be enjoyed with a meat and cheese plate, or with oysters and your loved one.

Happy 2021! And cheers to better days ahead.