It always amazes me how many native Italian wine grape varieties there are, just waiting to be discovered. Beyond the famous Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, there are over 1,000 others that few of us have ever heard of: Durella, Gaglioppo, Uva di Troia and so on—see what I mean!

Ciliegiolo, a red wine grape, is one of them. Pronounced chee-lee-eh-JOH-loh, the name means little cherry, referring to the wine’s abundant dark red cherry notes. A native grape of Tuscany, Ciliegiolo thrives in warm hillside vineyards, particularly in the Maremma, a coastal region of southeastern Tuscany, as well as all over Chianti. It is also found in Umbria, Lazio, Liguria and Puglia.

“In my view,” says Ian D’Agata in his book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, “Ciliegiolo is one of the country’s greatest but most under appreciated grape varieties, allowing for wines of mesmerizingly pure aromas and flavors.”

D’Agata goes on to say that at its best, the grape makes “amazingly fruity wines with a graceful, refined mouthfeel . . . medium-bodied, bright and juicy, the red-cherry and berry flavors crisp and sweet, with smooth tannins.” It is in Maremma where Ciliegiolo “comes into its own,” he says, especially in the cooler, hilly inland areas of the region.

Typically used as a blend with Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo adds color, perfume and juiciness, while softening Sangiovese’s sharper, more acidic edge. In recent years, the interest in this alluring variety has grown and it is being planted more frequently, especially in Maremma where 100% varietal Ciliegiolo wines are now being more commonly produced.

Three Ciliegiolo Wines To Know About

Sassotondo San Lorenzo Ciliegio 2015. “The estate most intimately associated with Ciliegiolo in recent years has been Tuscany’s Sassotondo,” writes D’Agata, “where owners Carla Benini and Eduardo Ventimiglia have worked closely with their winemaker, Attilio Pagli, to promote the variety. . . Given the amazing success of Sassotondo’s Ciliegiolo wines, it’s fair to say they’ve never looked back.”

Indeed, I found this wine to be a delicious rendition of the grape. Abundant dark red cherry fruit; earthy, with notes of tar, mint and hints of eucalyptus. Simply terrific: delicious, rich, substantial. Certified Organic.

La Selva Ciliegiolo 2016. A nicely structured wine, earthy, spicy and bright, with dark red cherry notes, hints of smokiness and a wonderful salinity; an excellent Ciliegiolo with a great zing to it that would go perfectly with smoked ribs and other barbecue fare. Certified Organic.

Tenuta Cavallini Ciliegio 2018 Soft and earthy on the palate, almost like a Pinot Noir in weight, but with a subtle taste of tar and leather, as well as a gamey quality. Delicious with pasta and tomatoes, or meaty fish dishes like monkfish or wild striped bass. Organic Practices.