Virginia is a state with a rich history; after all, it was the site of North America’s first permanent English colony, established in 1609. Unsurprisingly, these early colonists planted many crops, including grapevines, hoping to create profitable businesses. Many of the plantings, such as tobacco, quickly became successful commercial enterprises. However, it wasn’t until the late 1970s that the state’s wine industry began taking root, aided by a handful of hard-working farmers.

Today Virginia is a well-established wine region with eight distinct AVAs: Blue Ridge, Central Virginia, Chesapeake Bay, Eastern Shore, Hampton Roads, Heart of Appalachia, Northern Virginia, Shenandoah Valley, Southern Virginia, and Virginia Mountains. Virginia winemakers and wine lovers are reaping the fruits of the early pioneers’ labor. The state, with 4,000 acres of grapes grown in ten different regions, is home to over 300 wineries that work with about 25 grape varieties, including Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Petit Manseng.

Early Mountain Vineyards is a leader in Virginia’s quality wine production. The winery, with 55 acres of estate vineyards, was founded in 2012 and has since grown into one of the most celebrated wineries of the state, winning four gold medals in the 2023 Virginia Governor’s Cup Wine Competition.

During a recent dinner at Manhattan’s Pinch Chinese, I met with winemaker Maya Hood White, who says Virginia’s winemaking community is very tight-knit, with the attitude that “we’re all in this together.” She also noted that it is less bound by tradition, which allows more experimentation in the vineyards and cellar. Over the past ten years, Early Mountain has become known for its low-intervention winemaking, which includes using naturally-occurring native yeast to start fermentations.

We tasted various Early Mountain wines paired with the assertive flavors of fresh ginger, black vinegar, and fried garlic, starting with a delicious 2021 Vidal Blanc. Vidal Blanc is a winter-hardy hybrid grape variety that originated in France. It produces wines of great acidity with enough sugar to create balanced wines. Early Mountain’s version is dry and vaguely reminiscent of cider with fruity grapefruit, lemon, pineapple, and apricot notes. It was a hit at the table paired with mushroom and vegetable dumplings served with slivered fresh ginger, soy sauce, and sesame chili marinated cucumbers.

**Winemaker Maya Hood White holding a bottle of Early Mountain Vidal Blanc.** *All photos by Lisa Denning.*

Next up was a side-by-side comparison of two Early Mountain Petit Mansengs, 2020 and 2021. Petit Manseng is a white grape variety well-suited to Virginia’s rather humid climate of warm summers and moderately cold winters. The variety is quickly becoming a darling of sommeliers thanks to its vibrant acidity, rich texture, and tropical fruit flavors that pair well with all kinds of food, especially fried and spicy foods.

The 2020, from a warm and wet vintage, has a lot of roundness and texture and showed a slightly candied quality, while 2021 is leaner, with more citrusy notes. Both wines showed mouthwatering acidity and were a good match for spicy shrimp with peppers and garlic, and fried calamari sprinkled with lemon juice.

The grande finale of crispy-skinned Peking duck was paired with two Early Mountain Cabernet Francs: 2020 Quaker Run Vineyard and 2021 Shenandoah Valley. Cabernet Franc is Virginia’s most planted grape variety, performing well in the state’s shorter growing season. Additionally, wines made from this red variety clearly tell the story of place by turning out very differently depending on where the grapes are planted.

“Similar to Oregon’s Willamette Valley,” says Hood White, “where producers make many different Pinot Noirs, Virginia producers are making a variety of Cabernet Francs. Early Mountain works with Cabernet Franc planted throughout the state, and in 2021 we made six different versions of it.”

The Quaker Run Cab Franc is dense and fruity with red cherry, raspberry, and pomegranate notes supported by medium tannins and acidity. The Shenandoah Valley Cab Franc, from a vineyard planted at a higher elevation, is more savory, with dark black fruit notes: black plum and black cherry, as well as black pepper, tobacco, leather, and earth. While both wines went well with the duck, my personal favorite was the Shenandoah Valley, as I tend to prefer a more savory style of wine.

**Eluvium’s dark fruit notes were a great match with dark chocolate ganache cake.**

Finally, we were treated to Early Mountain Eluvium 2020, a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Petit Verdot from sites around the state. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barriques, 40% new, giving it a rich, opulent, boldly tannic texture. The wine’s oak and cedar notes add complexity to its fruity base of black cherry, blackberry, and fig. The wine is powerful yet nuanced and can be enjoyed today, but should also develop and drink well for eight or more years if properly cellared.

Interested in learning more? A visit to Early Mountain Vineyards is one of many great ways to explore the beautiful state of Virginia. With its warm and inviting tasting room, picturesque outdoor spaces, and breathtaking views, guests can enjoy the wines and linger over a palate-pleasing experience.

For more information, visit the winery website.