It was dusk when the bus from Florence arrived at the hotel in San Gimignano. I was in Tuscany with about 250 wine writers, buyers, and sommeliers for Anteprime Toscana, an annual week-long tasting preview of the region’s top wines. After a full day of sampling Chianti Classico inside a former railway station, followed by the hour-long bus ride to San Gimignano, I was craving some fresh air — especially prior to what was sure be a wine-soaked, multi-course welcome dinner.

It was the perfect time of day to photograph the hilly landscape, not too bright and not too dark. The numerous clusters of cypress trees stood tall and regal as if proudly showing off their enchanting vine-covered slopes. And despite it being February, the hills were green, birds were chirping, and many of the flowers still had colorful petals attached to them.

Quaint stone farmhouses lent a romantic flair to the scene. Swirls of smoke rose above the tall chimneys, like ballerinas gracefully pirouetting into the sky. The air was filled with comforting, ski lodge-like wintry aromas. “Too bad I don’t know anyone here,” I thought, as I dreamt about sitting by a hearth, sipping a glass of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

San Gimignano: A Timeless Treasure

The charming hilltop town of San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sits between Florence and Siena and is known as the “Manhattan of the Middle Ages” for its numerous medieval towers. Built in the 14th century as homes for rich and powerful families, 13 of the original 72 towers remain, standing tall, and clearly visible from the surrounding countryside.

While the reason for my visit was to immerse myself in the area’s wines, I was able to stroll the narrow passageways whenever time allowed, taking in the well-kept, majestic buildings, like La Rocca di Montestaffoli fortress, one of the key lookout points in the center of the village. Unsurprisingly, the historical center attracts millions of tourists each year who come from all over the world to admire the well-preserved medieval atmosphere.

In addition to abundant cultural sights, San Gimignano offers many culinary treasures to locals and visitors alike: small artisan food shops, charming local restaurants, and one of the most delicious white wines of Italy.

**Lunch at Locanda Mandragola, followed by a stop at Gelateria Dondoli.**

Vernaccia: Tuscany’s Classic White Wine

When people think of Tuscany, the famous red wines of Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano first come to mind. However, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a white wine, is produced right in the heart of this famous region. According to historical records, it is one of Italy’s oldest wines, with its resilient vines having arrived from Liguria in the 1200s. A passage from Dante's Divine Comedy, written in 1320, tells of Pope Martin IV’s being sent into purgatory to atone for the sins of gluttony, particularly for having drowned himself in Vernaccia wine.

Today, this classic wine is considered one of Italy’s best whites — the fruit of a community of people who care deeply about their land. Additionally, it is the only Tuscan white wine to be awarded the lofty DOCG status, a guarantee of its origin and fine quality. The local regulations require that Vernaccia di San Gimignano contain at least 85% of Vernaccia grapes grown in the municipality of San Gimignano. And while up to 15% of other white grape varieties are allowed, most producers believe that Vernaccia’s unique and interesting qualities best stand alone.

In its youth, this golden-hued wine, typically dry and crisp, has just enough texture to balance its floral and citrus notes. With age, the wines gain in complexity; their savory, herbal, and flinty notes becoming more apparent. The best grapes are used to make Riserva wines, for which a minimum of 11 months aging in the cellar is required, followed by at least 3 months in the bottle before being released to the market. Whether young or aged, Vernaccia di San Gimignano often finishes with an appealing hint of bitterness, making it a great match for food. This is a perfect wine for an aperitivo, or to enjoy with Tuscan-style foods like salami, seafood, and pasta sprinkled with grated Pecorino cheese.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wines To Know About

Many of the wines I tasted during Anteprime were 2018s, a great vintage with a warm, sunny fall that helped ripen the grapes.

Seven 2018s to Drink Now

Montenidoli Tradizionale 2018 Winery owner Elisabetta Montenidoli’s philosophy is to “follow the rules of nature . . . far away from any chemical poison invented by humans.” (winery website). The Montenidoli wines are a longtime favorites of mine. The Tradizionale, with floral, pear and spice (cinnamon) aromas, is full-bodied, yet crisp, on the palate with bright acidity and a stony, mineral earthiness, gained from long lees aging (skin contact).

Montenidoli Fiore 2018 Another winner, the aromas of this wine reminded me of cake batter, a yeasty, fruity, happy scent. On the palate its creamy texture and bright acidity would pair well with a dish like Risotto With Mushrooms.

Podere le Volute 2018, This certified organic wine caught my attention by its interesting combination of bright, citrusy flavors with a hint of mushroomy notes. Pair with everything from pizza to Roast Chicken.

La Lastra 2018. Coming from red clay soils (famous for producing bold and flavorful wines), this organically produced wine has a complex bouquet of floral, citrus, tropical and mineral notes. On the palate, there’s an earthy flintiness that makes it a great food wine, especially with a flavorful dish like Cod With Clams and Butter Beans.

Cesani 2018. An unusual take on Vernaccia di San Gimignano, this wine, like the Montenidoli Fiore, has enticing aromas of cake batter, along with a touch of whisky (yes, cake batter and whisky can be a wonderful combination!). On the palate there is a subtle creaminess and that classic, bright acidity. Food Pairing: Sweet and Spicy Salmon.

Cappella Sant’Andrea 2018. This certified organic winery considers itself the “keepers of an ancient art that interprets a place and its traditions and becomes its witness… for our territory.” (winery website). This fresh and crisp wine has great mineral notes and would pair well with all types of shellfish.

Teruzzi Isola Bianca 2018. A juicy and refreshing wine, aged exclusively in stainless steel barrels, it oozes floral, herbal and citrus aromas. This is a delicate yet round-textured example of Vernaccia, displaying a fabulous mixture of savory (slightly salty even) and fruity flavors. It finishes with an appealingly bitter taste of almonds. A perfect choice with a grilled meaty fish like Sesame Crusted Tuna.

Six Riserva Wines To Know About

Montenidoli Carato 2016. Once again, Montenidoli hits the mark with this wood-fermented wine that offers a unique richness of texture. Gorgeous floral aromas are followed by citrus fruits and spices on the palate and a long, savory aftertaste. This is my #1 pick of all wines tasted in San Gimignano and pairs particularly well with strong cheeses.

Allessandro Tofanari Astrea 2016. Comparable to the Montenidoli, this is a complex and intense wine with a nose of yellow apple, honey, chalk and a touch of rose petal. A fresh and savory taste, with equally enticing fruitiness, the wine has a pleasantly bitter finish. Pair with grilled chicken, pork chops, and vegetables.

Panizzi Riserva 2013. An excellent example of an oak-aged Vernaccia, the wine is dry and refreshing, smells like apples, lemons and oranges and offers a touch of salinity and mineral character, finishing with bitter almonds and hazelnut. “These wines are the children of the land around us,” says Simone Niccolai, owner of Panizzi winery, who believes that, if treated correctly, “Vernaccia grapes can make one of the great white wines of the world.”

Tenuta Le Calcinaie Simone Santini Vigna ai Sassi Riserva 2017. Organically produced, the wine’s subtle fruity, floral and mineral aromas give way to a crisp and fresh, yet richly textured wine. With notes of almond and orange peel, and an appealing bitterness on the finish, I would pair with gnocchi in a gorgonzola cream sauce.

Falcini Riserva 2014 - On the nose, the wine has floral, herbaceous, and spice notes like peach, citrus, white flowers and cinnamon. On the palate, it displays a generosity of fruit and is full-bodied with great salinity — a very nice and classic example of Vernaccia.

Fornacelle Riserva 2014. A go-to for those who like more prominent notes of oak in white wine, this dry, fruit-forward Vernaccia would be a great match for Pasta With Scallops and Shrimp.

Inside the Palazzo Comunale are the beautiful, fresco-covered walls of the Sala Dante, the Dante room, where the great poet addressed the town's council in 1299.