Etna Rosso, the red wine of Sicily’s Mount Etna, are among some of the most treasured wines in the world. Hailing from the lower slopes of one of the most active volcanoes in the world, they have become, in recent years, hotter than hot. And thankfully, I don’t mean from lava (the last major eruption was in 1999).

The popularity of this dynamic wine region has soared since the arrival, in the 1990s, of serious, quality-minded producers whose products showcase the land’s unique characteristics gained from volcanic soils, high elevations, and a cooler climate than the rest of Sicily. Etna Rosso wines are now some of the most sought-after Italian wines.

Risky Winemaking

Yet, for those living in Etna, reminders of the fragility of life are everywhere and it’s not unusual to be on a road that comes to a dead end — thanks to a huge mound of previously lethal lava, now solidified. But despite the ever-present risk of volcanic eruptions, the cultivation of vines on Etna continues.

Photo of Alberto Tasca, courtesy of Grape Collective.

Why? According to Alberto Tasca, CEO of Sicily’s Tasca d’Almerita and its Etna estate, Tenuta Tascante, the reason lies in the rich volcanic soils. The abundant calcium, magnesium, and iron on the volcano’s lower slopes allow the making of distinctive, ageable wines. “Nerello Mascalese grapes and the volcanic soils of Mount Etna interact magically,” says Alberto, “expressing the strength of the territory in a distinctive and unmistakable way.”

Characteristics of Etna Rosso Wines

Etna Rosso is typically a blend of at least 80% Nerello Mascalese, with the balance Nerello Cappuccio (both indigenous varieties produced only in the Etna region). The former is credited with bringing complexity and character to the wines, while the latter brings a soft and fruity character.

Etna Rosso wines are known for their subtle and bright red fruit notes, low alcohol, stony, chalky minerality, and a strong tannic backbone. The wine’s light body comes from a lower alcohol level and makes it an excellent pairing with delicate, citrus-driven dishes. Yet the strong tannic backbone and savory qualities of a well-made Etna Rosso allow it to complement heavier, earthier foods.

Tasca d’Almerita’s Tenuta Tascante

The Tasca family of Tasca d’Almerita winery has a long and distinguished history (since 1830) of Sicilian winemaking. Today, the winery is considered a benchmark winery of the island, as well as one of the best producers in all of southern Italy. In November of 2019 the winery was awarded Wine Enthusiast’s “European Winery of the Year,” the first time that a Sicilian winery has received this prestigious honor.

In 2007, after an exhaustive study of the Mount Etna area, the family founded their first Etna estate, Tenuta Tascante, the name coming from the combination of Tasca and Etna. There are 7 wines in this portfolio, including four new-to-the-market single vineyard bottlings from the 2016 vintage. Each 100% Nerello Mascalese wine is named after the “contrada” (or specific zone) that the wine comes from: Pianodario, Rampante, Sciaranuova, and Sciaranuova Vechie Vigne.

I recently had a chance to taste these four expressions of 100% Nerello Mascalese and, boy, was I was impressed! By vinifying the wines separately, the winery is able to clearly display the geologic characteristics of the diverse Etna terroir. Each Contrada wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged for twelve months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Tasca’s goal with these wines is to, as he told a group of journalists, “give the soil — the place — to the consumer.” After tasting all four single vineyards, it is clear that the Tenuta Tascante wines have achieved this goal. Each wine is a unique expression of its particular site, yet with a similar thread running throughout them:

a beautiful lightness (Tasca likens them to delicate Pinot Noirs, but with more tannins.)
a unique chalky, stony, volcanic minerality
a complex combination of aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass (think cranberry, sour cherry, tobacco, herbs, and minerals),
an excellent tannic structure that allows great ageability
a bracing acidity that cleans the palate and makes them true “food wines.”

Look for these unique and beautifully crafted Etna wines at your favorite restaurants and on wine-searcher.com.