Swiss Wine: Hard to Find, but Worth the Effort
/When you think of Switzerland, images of luxury watches, fine chocolates and cheeses, and stunning alpine landscapes come to mind. But did you know this small country of 8 million people also produces some of the world's best wines?
Switzerland’s six wine regions, covered with 36,000 acres of vines, are planted with an astounding 252 different grape varieties. However, Pinot Noir and Chasselas are the main players, accounting for 28% and 26% of all Swiss wines, respectively.
Unfortunately, Swiss wine is not easy to find outside of Switzerland. The domestic demand for its own wine is so high that little is left for export. Only 1% of its 125 million bottles (57% red, 43% white) are exported, while the Swiss enjoy the rest.
Seems unfair, right? But there is hope. Nicolas Joss, Director of Swiss Wine Promotions, believes everyone who owns a Swiss watch and eats Swiss cheese and chocolates should also be drinking Swiss wine, another of the country’s luxury products.
Joss says the wines they sell are only of top-notch quality. “Since 1994, wine production, including the yields of our grapes, has been regulated,” says Joss, “and if a wine producer doesn’t stick to the parameters, the wine can only be sold as cooking wine.”
Fortunately for the rest of the world, Joss confirmed there’s room to increase Swiss wine production, as many vineyards lost to phylloxera have yet to be replanted. Looking to this future growth, the Swiss Wine board optimistically promotes Swiss wines worldwide, including consumer and trade events like the one I attended last week at Manhattan’s Ai Fiori restaurant.
Historical Background
Grapes have been grown in present-day Switzerland since the Roman occupation, giving the area 2,000+ years of winemaking history. Here are some key facts:
In 515 A.D., the King of Burgundy founded the Abbey of Saint Maurice, where monks made wine for mass. Vines are still grown there 1,500 years later.
In 1141, the bishop of Lausanne ordered priests to plant vineyards in Lavaux, paralleling Burgundy's winemaking history.
In 1871, Swiss vineyards were decimated by phylloxera, and half were never replanted.
In 1948, the first school of viticulture and winemaking was established in Lausanne.
In 1973, the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL) was established to develop organic agriculture along the entire food system chain.
In 1981, Bio Suisse was created for organic wines, introducing the strict “Bud” label.
In 2007, the terraced vineyards of Lavaux were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In 2021, the Association Suisse Vin Nature (ASVN) was established to promote natural wine and its unique taste, scent, and appearance.
Major Wine Producing Areas
Swiss wine country is diverse, with various micro-climates, soil types, traditions, and grape varieties. The country’s 36,000 acres of vineyards are divided into six major regions: Valais (33%), Vaud (26%), German-speaking Switzerland (18%), Geneva (9%), Ticino (7%), and the Three Lakes (6%).
Valais, Vaud, Geneva, and Ticino are named after their cantons (provinces). Meanwhile, the Three Lakes Region includes vineyards around Neuchatel, Morat, and Bienne lakes, and the German-speaking Swiss wine regions are grouped into west, central, and east sections.
At lunch, I tasted Swiss wines made from the following grapes: Chasselas, Humagne Blanche, and Petit Arvine for the whites and Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Syrah for the reds. Following are general impressions of the varieties tasted.
WHITES
Chasselas. Chasselas is a textured, fruity, and aromatic white wine. The Swiss drink it as an aperitif or with cheese—think fondue. But it is much more than that. This “gastronomic wine” can stand up to all kinds of cuisine, bringing out the best of what’s on the plate. Before lunch, it was a tasty stand-alone welcome wine, and with lunch, it paired beautifully with an appetizer of fluke crudo, caviar, and crème fraîche. With age, Chasselas develops remarkable aromas of honey and walnuts.
Humagne Blanche. Long planted in the Valais region, this variety reminded me of Sauvignon Blanc with its fruit-forward, citrusy, fresh aromas. However, the palate has more texture and a very long finish.
Petit Arvine. Also planted in Valais, this variety produces distinctive wines with excellent structure, full-bodied fruit, herbal and citrus (lemon) character, and good acidity.
REDS
Pinot Noir. Swiss Pinot Noir is very food-friendly and can be paired with various dishes, especially roasted or grilled meats and vegetables. The two Pinot Noirs at lunch were fragrant and fruity, bursting with fresh red berries and earth and spice notes.
Gamay. Next to Pinot Noir, Gamay is Switzerland's second most widely planted red grape variety. Typically, it makes fruity, easy-drinking reds, but our lunch wine (Jean-Pierre Pellegrin Gamay Sauvage) was more complex, with powerful yet fine tannins and a dark fruit profile.
Syrah: Bold and structured, with tangy, bright acidity and big dark fruit flavors. This meaty wine was fabulous with mushroom Parmigiana risotto.
They may be hard to find, but be on the lookout for these Swiss producers whose wines are available in the U.S.
Terres de Lavaux, Domaine La Colombe, Maison Gilliard, Chandra Kurt, Domaine Jean-René Germanier, Caves du Paradis Olivier Roten, Caves du Château d’Auvernier, Jean-Pierre Pellegrin Domaine Grand'Cour.