Carricante is one of the great Italian white wines. The grape is indigenous to Sicily and thrives on the slopes of Mount Etna, the world's most active volcano. Its name comes from the Italian word "caricare," meaning "to load," referring to the grape's tendency to make a high volume of juice—good for a wine producer’s pocket but not always the best quality wine. However, when carefully managed, Carricante produces outstanding wines of great complexity.

Carricante is the primary grape used for Etna Bianco DOC wines. It must make up 60% of the blend, or 80% for Etna Bianco Superiore, which is grown in the high-altitude vineyards of Catania’s Milo area and is considered the benchmark for the variety. Carricante is often blended with Catarratto. However, some producers create stunning 100% Carricante wines that show the grape's potential.

A Taste of Mount Etna

Etna Bianco DOC wines are known for their vibrant acidity and citrus notes—lemon, lime, grapefruit, and orange—complemented by herbal notes like mint and aniseed and a distinct flinty, smoky note. They pair well with many foods, especially shellfish, light pasta dishes, fresh cheeses, and sushi. One of my favorite Carricante pairings is with Lemon Shrimp Risotto. Additionally, its zingy acidity makes it go well with rich and fatty meat dishes.

In recent years, wine producers in Australia, California, and other parts of Italy have been experimenting with the variety. Still, Mount Etna Carricante is difficult to replicate elsewhere, and the finest expressions of this grape come from its native volcanic soils.

One of Carricante's most intriguing qualities is its ability to age. While delightful when young, these wines can develop remarkable complexity over time, taking on notes of honey, nuts, and petrol, similar to aged Riesling. These aged whites can pair beautifully with complex, hearty dishes like lobster risotto, rosemary garlic roast chicken, truffle pasta, or herb-crusted rack of lamb.

As you delve into the world of Carricante, look for wines from respected Etna producers. A few longtime favorites include Benanti, I Custodi, I Vigneri, Pietradolce, Palmento Costanzo, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Passopisciaro, Terra Costantino, and Girolamo Russo.

But many more Etna producers are making fantastic Carricante wines, so don’t hesitate to try unfamiliar names, especially when recommended by a reputable wine shop or restaurant’s sommelier. These wines offer a delicious taste of Sicily’s volcanic terroir and affirm why Carricante is gaining attention from wine enthusiasts worldwide.

Three Etna Wines to Look For

Here are tasting notes of three Carricante Etna DOC wines I recently sampled, all of which I recommend.

Carricante can be very crisp and linear in style, like the first one below, or it can be a bit rounder and fuller-bodied, like the second two. One thing they have in common, though, is a bright acidity and saline minerality.

How can you tell whether it’s crisp and lean or fuller in body? Check the percentage of alcohol on the label. Less than 12.5% will be leaner in style, and those above 13% will have a heavier body.

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco de Sei 2021

Subtle hints of lemon and grapefruit with licorice; on the palate, very crisp, lean with mineral salinity; flavors of green apple, lemon, and pear with a tremendous persistence. A mesmerizing wine. Organic. 12% Alc. SRP $27.

**The crisp acidity of Palmento Costanzo's Etna DOC Bianco di Sei is a great foil to fatty sausages.**

Duca di Salaparuta Lavico Etna Bianco 2023

Delicate aromas of lemon and wet slate, with a dry, full, round, and ripe palate with tastes of lemon curd and herbs. Lots of mineral salinity and a lingering, delicious finish. A supple and elegant wine. 13% Alc. SRP $36.99.

**Carricante and swordfish, a classic Sicilian pairing.**

Tenuta Ferrata Veni Etna Bianco 2022

Intense aromas of lemon curd, ripe fruit, and candied orange with an earthy undertone. Full-bodied, round, and creamy palate with zingy, mouthwatering acidity and a long finish. 13% Alc. SRP $27.