What better time than the holidays to splurge on a lavish wine, whether as a gift for your favorite wine lover, or a special bottle to serve at your own holiday table?

But what makes a wine splurge-worthy, other than a hefty price tag? Like any other product that’s for sale, “you get what you pay for” isn’t always true. Just because a wine is expensive doesn’t mean it’s worth the money. I’ve had wines to write home about that cost less than a basic manicure (let me clarify that by saying “in New York City”!), but also disgracefully bad bottles that cost the same as an expensive cashmere sweater.

Balance is the Key to Everything in Life, Including Wine!

The most important characteristic of a wine is its balance. This means that all of the components (alcohol, tannins, acidity, and sugar) work well together, without any element being glaringly obvious. For example, a wine with too much alcohol will feel overly dense and heavy, and one with too much acidity will taste thin and sharp. On the other hand, a wine with a good alcohol-acidity balance tastes, as Goldiliocks would say, “just right.”

Wines that are balanced tend to have many layers of flavors and a long finish, meaning the taste of the wine lingers in your mouth for more than just a few seconds, sometimes up to a minute or two. These wines beckon you to take another sip and always complement a meal, never overpowering the taste of the food.

Balanced wines are not overly oaky either. Most red wines, and some whites, benefit from oak barrel aging, but when it’s overdone, the strong flavors of wood mask the flavor of the fruit—the core of a wine. Unfortunately, there are many pricey wines that, for various reasons, have gained high critical scores, or even ‘cult’ status, despite being over-oaked, high-alcohol ‘fruit bombs.’ People are getting tired of wines that cost an arm and a leg and are practically undrinkable with a meal. Consequently, many wineries are now experimenting with other types of aging vessels that don’t impart additional flavors to the juice, like clay amphorae and concrete tanks .

How Temperature Affects Balance

A good wine can appear unbalanced if it is not served at the correct temperature. In the Wine Spectator, Dana Nigro says, “Too hot and the wine’s alcohol will be emphasized, leaving it flat and flabby. Too cold and the aromas and flavors will be muted and, for reds, the tannins may seem harsh and astringent.”

What is the right temperature? Nigro recommends serving light dry white wines, rosés, and sparkling wines at 40° to 50° F, while full-bodied white wines and light, fruity reds should be served at 50° to 60° F, and full-bodied red wines and Ports at 60° to 65° F.

Other Considerations

There are many other reasons why a wine could be considered splurge-worthy. It might be historical: an iconic or pioneering wine that defines a region; for example, Robert Mondavi wines from Napa Valley. Or possibly it’s because of the human interest slant: a wine with a great story behind it like Laurent-Perrier, whose roots go deep into World War II. Or it could be purely for personal reasons, perhaps you love the label’s design or its name is the same as your best friend’s. A good wine retailer can steer you in the right direction and advise you if the one that’s calling your name is worth the money.

Nine Splurge-Worthy Red Wines

There are hundreds of wines that I could recommend. Here’s a short list of red wines I received as samples that I’m giving a shout-out to.

Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella 2009. ($98) This exquisite wine is made from grapes that have been laid to dry on straw mats for three to four months, a process that yields lush wines with intense flavors. The 2009 vintage is made with 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella and is described by wine critic James Suckling as a “really beautiful Amarone that shows fresh, glazed cherries, red licorice, dried nutmeg, caramelized orange peel, dried rose petals, hot stones and red-plum essence.” Medium to full bodied, with bright acidity and a long, spicy finish, it can be drunk with red meat, game, and mature cheeses, or simply savored at the end of a meal.

Other Amarone producers to splurge on: Santi, Allegrini, Zenato, Dal Forno, Sartori, Giuseppe Quintarelli, Tenuta Sant’Antonio.

Chateau Lassègue Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2011. ($74) Lassègue’s beautiful label reflects the ornate sundials that adorn the facade of their beautiful 18th century chateau. This opulent right bank Bordeaux, comprised of 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, is for wine lovers who enjoy big, hearty wines to pair with classic winter dishes like beef stew, pork or veal with a cream sauce, and rack of lamb.

Other Saint Émilion producers to look for: Chateau de Candale, Couvent des Jacobins, Chateau Villemaurine, Chateau Fonplegade, Chateau Ausone, Chateau Figeac, Chateau Angelus, Cheval Blanc, Chateau Pavie.

Clos Mogador Vi de Finca Priorat 2016. ($80) This certified organic estate is in the heart of the Priorat hills of Spain, a wine region just south of Barcelona and not far from the Mediterranean Sea. Their Vi de Finca is a rich, full-bodied wine made from a blend of 40% Garnacha, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, and 5% Pinot Noir, Mourvedre, and Merlot. A great example of a balanced wine, everything—fruit, tannins, alcohol, acidity, and oak—is in perfect harmony. “This red delivers bold flavors on a gentle texture. Raspberry, kirsch, cola, licorice, and mineral notes mingle over light tannins, with racy acidity providing backbone.” (Wine Spectator) Drink now (with decanting for at least an hour, preferably 2) or hold for another 3-10+ years.

Carpazo Vigna La Casa Brunello 2013. ($70) Who wouldn’t be happy drinking Brunello? The way I see it, it’s hard to find a bad Brunello as the quality of winemaking in the region is extremely high. Carpazo is one of the most historic and highly-regarded wineries in Montalcino. The Vigna La Casa bottling is a special, single-vineyard wine with beautiful aromas of wild berries, cherry, tobacco and stony mineral flavors. Full-bodied, and harmonious, with good tannic structure and bright acidity (there’s that balance again!), the wine is delicate, yet austere, with a hint of earthiness —perfect to have with roast meats and hearty pasta dishes, like Bolognese, or Spaghetti Carbonara.

Other fine Brunello producers: Il Poggione, Casanova di Nero, Casa Raia, Altesino, Silvio Nardi, Biondi Santi, La Mannella, Uccelliera, San Polo, Col d’Orcia.

Triguedina Jean-Luc Baldés The New Black 2012. ($60) During the Middle Ages, Cahors winemakers produced “The Black Wine” by heating part of the grapes. As a revival of this medieval practice, Jean-Luc Baldès uses a prune oven to gently heat the grapes and create a unique wine. With intense black and dried fruit aromas, this pure Malbec shows great complexity and silky tannins. It paired perfectly with a rich ginger and anise-flavored Vietnamese beef stew.

Other notable Cahors Malbecs: Haut-Serre, Lagrezette, Saint Didier Parnac.

Keenan Cabernet Franc 2014. ($61) This 100% Cabernet Franc hails from Napa’s Spring Mountain District. The wine’s minimal hint of oak is balanced by its ripe fruit and earthy notes. “Keenan has always done a knock-out job with their Cabernet Franc, and their 2014 Cabernet Franc…shows wonderful forest floor, white flowers, and raspberry and blueberry notes that clearly suggest a cool climate wine.” (The Wine Advocate)

Other splurge-worthy reds from Napa: Cliff Lede, Ramey, Heitz, Mayacamas, Ehlers, Long Meadow Ranch, Sullivan Rutherford, Matthiasson, Cain.

Woodward Canyon Walla Walla Valley Estate Reserve 2011 ($74). Rick Small is one of Washington State’s pioneering winemakers. This exceptional red wine is made from 95% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot. The wine, fermented with native yeast, is deeply concentrated with cassis and black fruits. Spice and vanilla flavors integrate beautifully with the fruit. The texture is fine-grained and the wine has a long and enticing finish.

Other Walla Walla wineries to look for: Gramercy Cellars, Abeja, Leonetti, Seven Hills, Dunham Cellars, L’Ecole No. 41.

Massolino Serralunga d'Alba Barolo 2015 ($44) For fans of traditional Barolo, Massolino wines are a must-drink. This Barolo, made mostly of grapes grown in the esteemed Serralunga d’Alba vineyard, is rated 93 points by both the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast. The 2015 is already drinking well now (it was a warm vintage in Barolo) and had inviting aromas of juicy red fruit, spice and earth, with velvety tannins on the palate. Although you will enjoy the 2015 now, this a wine that will only improve with age.

Other notable Barolo producers: Giacomo Conterno, Aldo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Luciano Sandrone, Giuseppe Mascarello, Elio Altare, Ceretto, Michele Chiarlo, Roberto Voerzio, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Vietti.

Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Clos de La Mousse 2017. ($61) No list of splurge-worthy red wines would be complete without a pinot noir from Burgundy. Founded in 1731, Maison Bouchard Père & Fils is one of Burgundy’s oldest wine merchants. Over the centuries, the winery has acquired 130 hectares of the top crus in Burgundy. This surprisingly affordable wine is delicate and refined with fruity notes of fresh strawberry, cherry, and blackberries followed by leather and earthy notes with a lovely velvety finish. Drink now or hold for another ten years. I’ll be serving this one with the Christmas Eve dinner!

Other notable red wine producers in Burgundy: Georges Roumier, Denis Mortet, Armand Rousseau, Tollot Beault, Coche-Dury.