Tuscany, one of Italy’s most beautiful regions, is a traveler’s dream. Its picturesque landscape, ancient history, artistic legacy, and delectable food and wine have been attracting tourists for decades. But what many people don’t know is that Tuscany is a vast region with plenty to offer beyond Florence and the other well-known hill towns.

Maremma, in the southwestern part of Tuscany bordering the Tyrrhenian Sea, is one of these lesser known areas. In fact, when I mentioned to friends that I had recently traveled there, I was mostly met with blank stares. I quickly learned to add, “in the southwestern part of Tuscany” and then, their eyes would light up.

Located an easy 90-minute drive from both Florence and Rome, Maremma is somewhat of an outlier — the ‘wild child’ you could say — where culture and traditions have remained unchanged for centuries and its raw beauty undiscovered outside of Italy. If you’re the type of person who gets a kick out of discovering off-the-beaten-path gems, this is the place for you.

Maremma will remind you of a large jigsaw puzzle, one whose pieces fit together in a logical, yet magical way. Its topography is so diverse that you can go from rocky and sandy beaches to pine tree forests to green hills and mountains all in the span of a day!

And there’s something for everyone in Maremma, whether you’re a food and wine lover, outdoor sports enthusiast, history buff, photographer, or spa lover. Maremma’s awe-inspiring sights, multitude of experiences, friendly people, and delicious homemade food and wine, will bring you back time and time again.

**The smiling faces of Maremma Toscana DOC winemakers.**

FOR WINE LOVERS

There’s nothing better than tasting wine with the winemaker. Maremma is full of small, family-owned wineries where you can spend an afternoon tasting wine with the people who make it.

The official appellation, Maremma Toscana DOC (who sponsored my trip there), covers the entire province of Grosseto. All cultivated vineyards in this area can be used to produce wines under the Maremma Toscana name. The main varieties grown here are Sangiovese for the reds and Vermentino for whites, along with other native Italian red grape varieties like Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Pugnitello, and international grapes like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc.

Many wineries go beyond the typical tour and offer special tastings that pair the region’s wines with local foods and traditional dishes. When planning your visit, call ahead to make an appointment and check their location on Google maps. Maremma is a large area and it can take over an hour to get from one place to the next.

**A sign on Sassotondo’s cellar door. “Danger! Fermentation - No oxygen.”**

Sassotondo Winery - Meet the friendly owners Carla Benini, a trained agronomist, and Edoardo Ventimiglia, a former documentary filmmaker, who lived in Milan and Rome before catching the Maremma bug. They purchased an old farmhouse in 1990 and planted 12 of its 72 hectares of land with grapes that are farmed organically and biodynamically. Don’t miss their delicious red wines made from Ciliegiolo grapes. Read my interview with Carla on Grape Collective.

Tenuta Montauto - Ricardo and Ilaria Lepri began making wine in 2000 on this organically farmed property. The unique terroir, with its clay and quartz soils and proximity to the sea, is especially good for growing white varietals, although their sparkling wine made from Sangiovese, a red grape, is out of this world!

**Nicola Lenci of Fattori di Magliano with a concrete egg used to age his wines.**

Fattoria di Magliano - On a hilly landscape not far from the sea, the winery has been farming organically since 2016. Visit the tasting room, built from stones found on the property, to enjoy the delicious Vermentino and Sangiovese, all of which is aged in concrete tanks.

Terenzi Winery is located in Scansano, home of the famous Morellino di Scansano wine. Terenzi produces white and red wines, olive oil, and grappa — all of which can be tasted in the tasting room. The property, convenient to many local sights and activities, includes an elegantly furnished B&B where you can relax by the swimming pool with a glass of Terenzi’s crisp and refreshing Vermentino.

Beautiful views surround The pool at Terenzi Winery’s Bed & Breakfast. Photo courtesy of Terenzi. All other photos by Lisa Denning. — **Beautiful views surround The pool at Terenzi Winery’s Bed & Breakfast.** *Photo courtesy of Terenzi. All other photos by Lisa Denning.*

Basile Organic Wine Farm is considered one of the best organic wineries in Tuscany. Basile produces wines under the Maremma Toscana DOC and from the smaller appellation of Montecucco DOCG. Owners Giovan and Ilaria Battista welcome guests and pair the wines with genuine Maremma products.

Val delle Rose, purchased by Chianti’s Cecchi family in 1996, is a stunning property, surrounded by cork trees, vineyards, and rolling hills. Visitors can enjoy a tour of the underground cellar, walks through the vineyards, herb and vegetable gardens, and wine tasting on the terrace with panoramic views.

**Rocca di Frassinello’s incredible winery.**

Rocca di Frassinello was born as an Italian-French joint venture between Castellare di Castellina in Chianti and Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). One of the larger wineries in Maremma, the spectacular, contemporary architecture by Renzo Piano is worth the visit alone. But don’t miss out on the many other experiences: tastings (the wine is fabulous!), wine pairing lunches, artwork by David LaChapelle, and the exhibition of ancient archeological finds from the property. Beautiful wines in a beautiful setting!

FOR FOOD LOVERS

Da Caino’s handmade pepper and cheese tortelli dish.

If you’re anything like me, the best part of any trip is the food, and luckily, Maremma has some of the tastiest food in all of Italy. The cuisine is based upon seasonal, local ingredients: ricotta cheese, acquacotta (a soup made with vegetables, eggs and stale bread), tomatoes, porcini mushrooms, bread, pasta, olive oil, and meat dishes made from local wild boar (cinghiale) and wild cows (Maremmana). Call ahead to reserve your spot at these recommended restaurants.

**The wine cellar at Da Caino Restaurant.**

Da Caino is a charming 2-star Michelin restaurant, situated on a tiny street in the medieval hamlet of Montemerano, where you’ll be dazzled by owner-chef Valeria Piccini’s creative cuisine. Bottles ordered from the extensive wine list will come straight from Da Caino’s historic underground wine cellar.

Ristorante Il Pellicano, a one-star Michelin restaurant, can be found within the swanky hotel of the same name. Dine al fresco on the spectacular flower-filled terrace that overlooks the sea.

Osteria del Mare già Vòtapentole is located in the charming seaside resort town of Castiglione della Pescaia. Chef Massimiliano Ciregia wows his guests with creative renditions of classic seafood dishes in a casual and comfortable atmosphere.

Locanda La Luna, located in Tirli, the inland area of Castiglione della Pescaia, offers typical, yet innovative Maremma cuisine. Don’t miss the risotto with porcini mushrooms.

Other food-related experiences include a visit to Caseificio Fiorino, a cheese factory in Roccalbegnato, to taste DOP Pecorino cheese, and Frantoio Franci, an olive mill in Montenero, offering tours and tastings. Franci’s Le Trebbiane extra virgin olive oil consistently receives Tuscany’s top honors.

FOR HISTORY BUFFS

Don’t you just love wandering the narrow streets of ancient European villages? You never know what treasures are around the next bend!

Maremma is a region where ancient traditions — first brought by the Etruscan civilization and subsequently the Romans — have survived, along with a simpler way of life. Maremma’s charming hilltop towns are full of many architectural sites left behind by these ancient civilizations.

**Massa Marittima’s San Cerbone cathedral.**

Massa Marittima boasts the magnificent cathedral of San Cerbone, built between the 11th and 13th centuries.
Pitigliano is a quaint old town of Etruscan origin carved from volcanic stone, with a historical center known as “small Jerusalem” due to the historic presence of a Jewish community. Stop in to admire the beautiful synagogue built in 1598.

Sovana - Sorano - Vitozza are three villages within the Archeological Park of the Città del Tufo, built on a tufo rock cliff. Discover burial monuments, tombs, and a beautiful Gothic Romanesque church.

Montemerano is known as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy with many narrow lanes, stone stairs, vine-covered walls, art-filled churches, and charming courtyards.

Manciano, a quaint medieval town, is nestled on a hill with views in every direction. Visit the Cassero, an imposing 12th-century fortress, now a museum, and climb the tower for splendid views.

FOR SPORT, NATURE AND BEACH ENTHUSIASTS

**Mid-air in Maremma! On the quiet shores of the Maremma Regional Park.**

**Hop on a horse to explore the beauty of Maremma.**

Maremma Regional Park is a large park for hiking, horseback riding, bicycling, canoeing, and swimming on beautiful sandy beaches. Stop by the visitor center in Alberese early in the day since there is a limit on the number of visitors allowed in. Carrozze in Maremma offers daily horseback riding and carriage-driven trips where you will get the chance to see the butteri, the Tuscan cowboys, at work with their cattle.

**Maremmana cattle are reared in Maremma.**

**View from above of the beach in Castiglione della Pescaia.**

Castiglione della Pescaia is a fishing village with a beautiful, long sandy beach, perfect for fishing, swimming, and other water sports. Take a hike up into the hills to discover the charming ‘Borgo Medievale’ (medieval village) where, in the 11th century, people from the lower areas moved to for greater protection from pirate attacks.

Views from the room at Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola on Monte Argentario. — **Views from the room at** **Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola** **on Monte Argentario.**

Monte Argentario, with its endless beaches and incredible views, is a peninsula linked to the mainland by only three sandbars. The spectacular setting of crystal clear waters and wild nature offers its rugged, rocky coast for many water sporting activities: snorkeling, sailing, windsurfing, scuba diving, and more.

HOTELS FOR SPA LOVERS

Hot Thermal baths at the Hotel Terme di Saturnia.

Hotel Terme di Saturnia. Situated above a crater of volcanic origin feeding water straight into the heart of the resort, a stay here is like no other. Take a dip in the healing sulphuric waters of the thermal baths (99 degrees fahrenheit!) before enjoying a 50-minute Idravitis treatment (grapeseed scrub massage) at the serene spa. (Tip: if the sulfurous scent bothers you, swipe some Vick’s Vaporub below your nose.)

Riva del Sole Resort & Spa. A gorgeous spot in Castiglione della Pescaia offering a variety of beauty and massage treatments. The hotel has access to a private sandy beach with complimentary umbrellas and chairs for hotel guests.

Hotel Il Pellicano on Monte Argentario is a discreet hideaway in Porto Ercole, an elegant fishing village. Relax on the flower-filled terraces with their incredible sea views or escape to the peaceful spa for a relaxing body treatment, facial, or massage.

Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola on Monte Argentario offers simply-furnished rooms located on a cliff with stunning views of the sea. Take the shuttle to and from the private rocky beach equipped with umbrellas and chairs (for a fee). There is also a small spa offering body treatments, massage, and waxing.