Italy is a fascinating, wine-soaked nation with 20 distinct viticultural regions. The most famous ones, like Tuscany, Piedmont, and Veneto, often take all the glory with their highly coveted Brunello, Barolo, and Amarone wines. However, as all adventurous Italian wine lovers know, there is an abundance of lesser-known regions waiting in the wings, ready for their chance in the spotlight. It is here that you will find some of Italy’s most exciting wines, crafted from native grapes you’ve never heard of.

One such region is Umbria, known as Italy's cuore verde, green heart, for its abundant vegetation and rolling green hills. Despite being a stone’s throw east of Tuscany and having an impressive 3,000-year-old viticultural history, Umbria is often overlooked by wine enthusiasts.

Two Umbrian wines that have acquired global recognition are white Orvieto and red Sagrantino. Yet, there are many other viticultural pockets in Umbria, such as Colli del Trasimeno DOC, worth putting on your radar.

The Hills of Trasimeno

Colli del Trasimeno’s microclimate is well-suited for grape cultivation, thanks to its location on gentle hills surrounding Lake Trasimeno, Umbria’s largest body of water. Acting as a temperature moderator, the lake helps prevent both bone-chilling winters and scorching summer temperatures. Additionally, when the sun sets, a chill in the air ensures that the vines retain their zesty acidity.

However, it's not just the favorable climate that nurtures these vines; the region's fertile soils, a mix of sand, clay, and pebbles, also play an important role in coaxing out the grapes' full potential. The region’s winemakers are therefore able to produce all kinds of quality wine: white, red, rosé, sweet, and sparkling.

Spotlight on Fine Wines

In the heart of the Colli del Trasimeno DOC, close to the charming Medieval village of Castiglione del Lago, stands Madrevite winery. Established in 2003 by Nicola Chiucchiurlotto, Madrevite is deeply rooted in the rich history of the area. The name of the winery itself refers to a time when wine barrels were sealed with a madrevite, a traditional closure and spigot for barrels which helped keep the wines fresh.

Chiucchiurlotto's winemaking journey began with the replanting of part of his grandfather's old vineyards, which date back to 1978. The Madrevite estate now spans nearly 150 acres, with approximately 27 devoted to vineyards with the remaining a blend of forests, olive groves, and grain and legume fields. Chiucchiurlotto works with several grape varieties, including Grechetto, Trebbiano Spoletino, and most importantly, Gamay del Trasimeno (of no relation to Beaujolais’s Gamay grape but is instead a type of Sardinian Cannonau).

**At dinner with Nicola Chiucchiurlotto.**

Though not certified organic, the winery practices organic agriculture, ensuring the soils remain full of life, and free from deadening synthetic chemicals.

Chiucchiurlotto is a vintner with a clear vision. His winemaking philosophy centers on crafting quality wines with a light and fresh style, regardless of any conventional expectations for heavier, more oak-extracted wines, a more standard style of Umbrian wine.

"Our goal is to have complex wines that are easy to drink," he says. He uses various aging vessels, including stainless steel, cement tanks, and large 10-hectoliter wooden barrels. Chiucchiurlotto seemed especially excited about using cement and told us that these tanks, with their similar porosity to oak, allow microoxygenation without adding oaky flavor. The wines, he said, are softer and rounder with less aggressive tannins, letting the fruit notes shine.

A Funny Aside (And Why “The Godfather”)

Chiucchiurlotto, it turns out, not only creates exceptional wines but also exudes a charisma reminiscent of one of cinema’s most legendary characters, Don Vito Corleone!

In June, I visited Castiglione del Lago with a small group of American wine journalists. During a relaxed dinner with Chiucchiurlotto, it dawned on me that his voice, raspy and low, almost like a whisper, reminded me of cinematic legend Marlon Brando in The Godfather. When I mentioned this observation to the winemaker, with the others agreeing, he endearingly responded, "You are my favorite people."

Cindy, a fellow writer seated next to me, then challenged Chiucchiurlotto to recite a famous Marlon Brando quote from the movie,

"Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me."

With a hint of theatricality, Chiucchiurlotto practiced the line before delivering it with perfection, leaving everyone in stitches.

What better way could a winemaker engage with journalists than through these unexpected, shared moments? The dinner turned into a laughter-filled evening, one that still cracks me up when I think about it.

Six Wines and Infinite Umbrian Hospitality

Twice during our visit, our group savored a lineup of Madrevite wines: at the winery, paired with a delicious home-cooked lunch, and at the cozy L’Acquario restaurant in the heart of the Castiglione del Lago. Each wine pairing told a tale of Umbria’s native grapes and the unique flavors of the Colli del Trasimeno region.

Il Reminore Bianco 2022. 100% Trebbiano Spoletino. Aromas of tropical and citrus fruits with nuances of saline minerality. On the palate, it is fresh, with tropical fruit and mineral notes. Goes well with appetizers, first courses, fish and white meats. Aged for six months in steel on the fine lees and six months in the bottle.
La Bisbetica Rosato 2022. 100% Gamay del Trasimeno. Expressive raspberry and cherry aromas; pleasantly tart taste; excellent as an aperitif or with fish or white meat in a light tomato sauce. Note: on the bottle’s back label, it states that La Bisbetica has “hidden and sensual fragrances."
Opra Gamay del Trasimeno 2021. 100% Gamay del Trasimeno. Rich, red-fruit, plum and black cherry aromas; spicy, crunchy cherry finish with silky tannins. Perfect with pizza and pasta.
Futura 2021. 100% Trebbiano Spoletino, sparkling wine made by the ancestrale method. Hints of white fruits and yeasty aromas, fresh and citrusy with a creamy, persistent perlage.
C'OSA Gamay del Trasimeno Riserva 2018. 100% Gamay del Trasimeno. Floral with fruity raspberry, strawberry, and cherry aromas; light and fresh taste with a long finish. Great with mushroom risotto.
Che Syrah sarà 2016. 100% Syrah. Aromas of spices and small berries, hints of vanilla and oak. On the palate, meaty and earthy, with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. A good match with roast meat and aged cheeses.

Visit Umbria!

Are you ready to ditch Tuscany and head to Umbria? Every summer weekend, Madrevite winery opens its doors to guests who want to savor a wine-paired picnic with the breathtaking backdrop of Lake Trasimeno. You may even get a chance to clink glasses with The Godfather of Lake Trasimeno!

Visit madrevite.com for more information on winery experiences.

Other sights to see while enjoying Castiglione del Lago: Palazzo della Corgna, Rocca del Leone, Parco del Lago Trasimeno, and the islands of Lake Trasimeno.