Made in Le Marchè: Eating and Drinking Like a Local
/If you’re anything like me, traveling includes eating and drinking like a local. No matter where I might be, I follow the saying, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” And it has served me well.
Last winter, on an unforgettable trip to Vietnam, the hotel’s restaurant staff would offer me weak “American” coffee or a cappuccino at breakfast. Finally, I asked, “What kind of coffee do you drink, and can you please bring me that?” It was the best question of the trip!
To eat and drink like a native gives enormous insight into the culture and customs of its people. And isn’t that the point of traveling, to connect with and understand the soul of a place? Starting the day off in Vietnam with what the locals were drinking, strong “robusta” (as opposed to arabica) coffee sweetened with condensed milk, is not only an excellent counterpoint to a typical breakfast of spicy beef noodle soup, but it is also a glimpse into the window of Vietnamese lives.
The philosophy of eating like a local doesn't just end in faraway places like Vietnam; it extends across the globe. In Italy's Le Marchè region, a feast of local delicacies and wines offered a unique cultural connection, a stark departure from my daily lunch of salad at home in New York City.
A Hidden Gem in The Heart of Italy
Le Marchè is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. Located in the eastern part of the country along the Adriatic Sea, it is bordered by Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, and Abruzzo. Unspoiled by tourism, the region offers visitors an authentic Italian experience where not much has changed over the centuries.
Le Marchè is often called “Italy in one region” for its diverse landscape consisting of the Sibillini mountains and miles of rolling green hills dotted with vineyards and olive groves that lead to the cliff-lined bays of the white-pebbled Adriatic Sea.
The region's well-preserved Medieval hilltop towns, rich in art, music, and cultural treasures, along with its warm-hearted, hard-working locals—the Marchigiani—underscore, in addition to its geographical diversity, that it is indeed "Italy in a nutshell.”
Le Marchè offers an authentic Italian experience not only for those seeking cultural and culinary immersion but also for those interested in wine. Its vineyards are spread over four provinces, with wine production totaling about 1.6 million hectoliters. Le Marchè is especially known for its white wine made from the Verdicchio grape. However, the region also produces whites from Trebbiano, Passerina, Pecorino, and more. Additionally, the region produces many outstanding red wines from grapes like Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Merlot, mainly in the more southern, warmer, areas with a more Mediterranean climate.
The southern part of this picturesque region, the Ascoli Picino region that borders Abruzzo, is not only a haven for food enthusiasts but also home to the highly-regarded Il Conte Villa Prandone winery, a family legacy dating back to its founding in 1950.
Food and Wine Galore
Il Conte Villa Prandone lies in the heart of the Piceno region, covering about 50 hectares of vineyards in the hills of the medieval village of Monteprandone. Here, the clay and limestone-rich soil imparts excellent color, structure, acidity, and alcohol content to the wine, especially the reds.
“Our philosophy at Il Conte di Villa Prandone is to produce high-quality wines," says Emmanuel De Angelis, third-generation proprietor. "Our terroir is very particular, and we are blessed with a good microclimate for grape growing. The grapevines, some as old as 53 years, bask in sunlight all day, refreshed by sea breezes and cool nighttime temperatures. Over the years, we've upheld the commitment to quality started by my grandfather.”
During my visit with a group of journalists, Il Conte Villa Prandone became the scene of a sumptuous buffet laden with various regional dishes and a selection of the winery’s outstanding wines.
For the cuisine, fresh seafood took center stage. Marinated scallops, succulent salmon, shrimp, anchovies, cold calamari salad, oysters sprinkled with red peppercorns—each dish bursting with the flavors of the nearby Adriatic Sea.
Plenty of other options were artfully arranged on the platters too, a fusion of land and sea: cold cuts, prosciutto with sweet melon, marinated mushrooms, barley salad, sundried tomatoes, olives, roasted zucchini, and sweet bell peppers. Local cheeses, including the creamy Pecorino di Fossa, were presented with the winery's olives and honey.
The culinary expertise of the De Angelis family, much like their wine, is clearly a tradition passed down through generations. The winery is divided into two lines: Linea Terra and Linea Premium. We were presented chiefly with whites and reds from the Premium line during lunch.
As a seafood lover, I gravitated towards the whites, Pecorino and Passerina, whose bright acidity and minerality went perfectly with fresh seafood. Later, during dinner with the De Angelis family, we enjoyed the reds with pasta in a hearty ragu sauce (see photos below).
Round 2: More Food, More Wine
You would think after such an extravagant lunch that dinner would be light and simple, right? Not when you’re with the De Angelis family! They graciously hosted us that evening at Borgo Antico restaurant in the charming town of Grottamare, where we dined on local specialties while taking in spectacular sea views. For anyone visiting Le Marche, spending time in this ancient seaside village, one of the most beautiful in Italy, is a must.
During my brief visit to Le Marchè, by embracing the "When in Rome, eat like the Romans do" philosophy, I came away with a newfound appreciation for this understated yet charming region. Thanks to the De Angelis family's pride in sharing their long-held traditions, our group of American wine writers enjoyed a delicious glimpse into Le Marchè’s culinary and winemaking excellence.
Il Conte Villa Prandone Wine Tasting Notes
Cavaceppo Passerina 2021. Ripe citrus fruit, intense minerality and refreshing acidity.
Navicchio Pecorino 2021. Citrus fruit aromas, full-bodied and balanced with great acidity.
Belva di Terra Sauvignon Blanc (85%) Pecorino (15%) Blend 2022. Fruity notes of bananas, green apple, peach and passion fruit, along with green tea and mint. Full-bodied, mineral, delicate acidity and with a long finish.
Marinus Montepulciano (70%) Sangiovese (30%) Blend 2020. Red cherry, raspberry, and herbs on the nose, big and bold on the palate with good acidity to balance the big fruit; silky tannins, fresh and elegant.
Zipolo Montepulciao (70%) Sangiovese (15%) Merlot (15%) Blend 2019. Big, intense fruit notes (blackcurrant, plum), complex and powerful yet refreshing, not heavy. Notes of vanilla and licorice with a strong backbone of tannic structure.
Lu Kont Montepulciano 2020. Big and bold, with strong yet velvety tannins; notes of licorice and wild berries. A perfect wine for hearty, meat-centric dishes.
IX Prandone Merlot 2019. Concentrated notes of ripe cherry and blackberry fruit, herbal and baking spices, big tannins, complex. Could use some time in the bottle before enjoying with rich and flavorful food.