Mad For Monastrell

If you love big, rich and intense red wines, have I got a grape for you!

Called Monastrell in Spain, the grape is known as Mourvèdre in France and frequently used in the famous blends of Bandol, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Côtes du Rhône. However, the variety’s birthplace is in the small region of Jumilla (pronounced who-ME-ah) in southeastern Spain.

Jumilla has a long and fascinating cultural and natural heritage of wine growing, and the oldest remains of vitis vinifera seeds in Europe were recently discovered there. Many other archaeological remains have also been found in the area, including a pair of earrings shaped as grape bunches that date from the fourth century BC. 

Located in Southeast Spain, the area begins in the Tobarra mountains around 50 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea.

Located in Southeast Spain, the area begins in the Tobarra mountains around 50 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea.

In modern times, Jumilla is one of the oldest DOPs (denominación de origin Protegida) in Spain, established in 1966. Today Jumilla has the distinction of being home to Europe’s single largest collection of 90-year-old ungrafted vines, with Monastrell being the main grape variety. Other red grape plantings include Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha Tintorera. White and sweet wines are also made in Jumilla in a much smaller quantity, about 10% of the area’s total production. 

A bold and aromatic red wine, Monastrell wines are an intense purplish red color with a strong fruit character (ripe black fruits like blackberries and dark cherries) and powerful tannins. The wines, particularly those aged in wooden barrels, are full-bodied with a silky mouthfeel. Rosés made with Monastrell are fresh and fruity with floral aromas and a long, lingering finish.

3,000+ Hours of Sunshine Each Year

Jumilla’s hot and dry climate, along with well aerated, water-retentive limestone and gravel soils, provide conditions that are very conducive to vine-growing; during times of drought the vines benefit from water stored in the sub-soils. The region’s abundant sunshine, frequent winds and low humidity mean that there is less need for pesticides, and 90% of Jumilla’s wine growers practice organic farming, with 70% certified. Additionally, the cool nights and high altitudes bring a large diurnal shift which help the grapes retain freshness.

Monastrell and Food

Jumilla’s Monastrell wines range from lively and fruity, to stunningly complex and pair well with just about any hearty and meaty dish, particularly those that are roasted, smoked or grilled—chili, hamburgers, short ribs, veal, pork, lamb, sausage, game and other meats served with slightly acidic sauces. They also pair well with cheesy pastas, risottos and dishes with truffle oil and mushrooms. The rosé can be paired with meat, but also does well with richer fish dishes including salmon, bluefish or swordfish. 

Three Jumilla Monastrell Wines

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Most Jumilla wines are Monastrell-based blends, but the three wines I recently sampled are 100% Monastrell, so I was able to get a really good feel for what the grape brings to the table. And check out those suggested retail prices. The wines are a steal!

Bodegas Alceno Jumilla Rosado 2020. (SRP $10-12) Don’t be put off by the dark orange pink color of this wine. It’s not sweet or heavy; the rosé has a bright and balanced fruit forward character (think tart candied fruit and strawberry jam with a hint of orange peel), and a delicious long, lingering finish. 

Bodegas Xenysel Jumilla Tinto Joven 2020 (SRP $10-14) No oak was used to produce this joven (young) Monastrell and the result is a juicy, fruity wine with moderate tannins. Both savory and ripe fruit characteristics are present—tobacco, licorice, dark plums and raspberry jam—and the wine feels soft and slightly restrained on the palate with good acidity.

Bodegas Olivares Jumilla Tinto Crianza 2018 (SRP $15-18) Aged for 12 months in 300-liter French oak barrels, the wine’s oakiness is balanced by its intense stewed fruit, licorice, black pepper and eucalyptus notes. Overall, a well-balanced wine to pair with rich and hearty dishes.

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Another of my favorite Jumilla Monastrells comes from Honoro Vera, a great value at $11.99. The wine is weighty with generous, concentrated red and black fruit, fine tannins, and fresh acidity on the finish. Every customer I recommend this wine to comes back to buy more. Enough said!