**The Author in front of the winery.** *All photos property of Lisa Denning.*

Sometimes, the term "awe-inspiring" is used to describe a place that doesn’t truly deserve it. Other times, it falls short, as with the Greek island of Santorini, where rugged volcanic cliffs rise high above the shimmering Aegean Sea, topped with whitewashed buildings reflecting the bright Mediterranean sun. The evening sunset is an especially magical time when the sky is painted orange, pink, and purple, casting a surreal glow over the entire landscape.

The Wine Connection

Since words can barely capture the beauty of this incredible place, adding “wine lover's paradise” to the equation makes it truly indescribable!

This small island of 29.3 square miles (about the same size as Manhattan) is home to 21 wineries and some of the oldest vines in Europe—quite remarkable considering its challenging, arid climate. Winemaking on the island dates back over three thousand years, and viticulture remains a significant part of present-day agriculture, with roughly 80 percent of Santorini’s crops being wine grapes.

A Best-Kept Secret

Last summer, on a trip to four Greek Cyclades islands, my daughter and I visited Vassaltis Vineyards in Vourvoulos, on Santorini's eastern side. This relatively new winery was founded by Yannis Valambous, who left a finance career in London to pursue winemaking after inheriting his late father’s seaside vineyards.

Valambous grew up in Athens but spent summers in Santorini at his family's holiday home. The residence is now a charming seven-room hotel called The Vasilicos, run by his sister Daphne, and where each room has stunning caldera views.

The winery’s first vintage was in 2015, and today, Vassaltis Vineyards is a shining example of how Santorini’s wine industry has evolved.

Guided by two respected Greek oenologists, Valambous revamped the vineyards, which previously produced grapes for sale to other wineries. He built a state-of-the-art modern winery and now bottles his own high-quality wines. In addition to the five hectares of owned vineyards, Vassaltis rents vineyards and contracts grapes from an additional 50 hectares.

Our visit to Vassaltis Vineyards was one of the highlights of our trip to Santorini. The winery's modern design and stunning vineyard and sea views make it a perfect setting for wine tasting. The food served in the on-site restaurant was one of the best meals on our trip to the Cyclades islands. I would even go so far as to say that its creative Mediterranean dishes are on par with what you’ll find at some of New York City’s top restaurants.

**Taramasalata, a greek salad made with bread, oil, onions, and fish eggs (tarama).**

**Crushed baby potatoes topped with smoked eel.**

**Mille-feuille with vanilla cream and candied orange basil topping. Served with Viassaltis VinSanto, a decadently delicious sweet wine, not to be confused with Italy’s Vin Santo.**

The Island’s Top White Wine

At the heart of the island’s viticulture is the Assyrtiko grape, which accounts for 80% of the vines and produces white wines with a rich texture, zippy acidity, and distinct saline minerality. Valambous told us that due to the surge in Assyrtiko’s popularity, prices for the wines have risen, changing the entire appellation.

“In the old days,” he says, we had big wineries here making cheap bulk wines to be sent overseas. But with increased prices came increased quality, and new players like myself have arrived. Today, Santorini is home to Greece's premiere vineyards in terms of reputation, making a special breed of wines compared to most other Greek wine regions.”

The island is planted with other white grapes, like Athiri and Aidani, which, when blended with Assyrtiko, add fruitiness and temper acidity. Red wine is also produced on the island, mostly from two native varieties: Mandilaria, a grape that makes robust, dark-colored wines, and Mavrotragano, often used to produce sweet wines.

A Surprising Landscape

Santorini’s landscape completely differs from any other European wine region I have visited. No rolling green hills here—it looks more like moon terrain with dry-looking, mostly brown vegetation and only a little bit of greenery mixed in here and there. Valambous credits Santorini’s unusual terroir for the greatness of its wines.

“Essentially, Santorini is a desert in the middle of the sea with very little rainfall,” said Valambous. “You wouldn't think grapes would grow here, yet its unique climate makes for growing low yields of great quality, concentrated grapes. There is a lot of sunshine in the winter, and in the summer, there is heat and strong winds—challenging yet rewarding conditions."

The island’s soil is sandy with hardened lava (pumice, ash, and basalt) underneath, which plays a crucial role in the quality of the grapes. "The most important feature of the soil is that it absorbs water during the winter, acting like a sponge,” says Valambous. “and holds onto it for the vines to access during the growing season.“

The Winemaking Process

At Vassaltis, the defining feature of the wine is its drinkability. Valambous aims to make wines that express character and a sense of place—those with fresh and pure fruit, bright acidity, and harmony.

"We let the Assyrtiko sit on its lees to give richness and body to the wine,” says Valambous, “because otherwise, you would notice the acidity too much. The wines are full-bodied but have a very good balance between fruit, oak (if used), acidity, body, and minerality. The tastier and more drinkable you make a wine, the more successful you'll be."

A Personal Touch

Yannis’s passion for winemaking is evident in every aspect of Vassaltis Vineyards. "I like the social aspect of winemaking,” says Valambous. “I meet so many colorful people. Also, the job involves a lot of variation, I’m not stuck behind a computer, like when I worked in finance. Even if I have the worst day, I get my AirPods and go to the beach at 7:00 PM and just sit there and take in the beauty of this place."

His philosophy of “quality over quantity” extends to the tasting and dining rooms, where the wine glasses are made of the finest crystal. "I'd rather serve 60 people in a Riedel glass than 400 people in a lousy wine glass," remarks Valambous.

During lunch, Valambous alternated between sitting with us and checking in on the cellar, where the grapes had recently arrived from harvesting. Despite the busy time of year, he didn’t rush us. He enthusiastically described each wine we were tasting, with the first being an entry-level blend of 50% Assyrtiko blended with Athiri and Aidani.

**“This is a very important wine because it's at the base of the pyramid,” said Valambous, adding that he admires wineries that offer value and quality even with the entry level.**

**100% Assyrtiko, fermented in steel tanks and left on its lees for six months.**

The labels of Vassaltis wines feature the shape of a rock and symbolize the volcanic soil and the winery's connection to the land. “The word 'Vassaltis' means basalt in Greek,” Valambous explained.

**100% Assyrtiko, aged in French oak barrels. This wine is a perfect example of the variety’s aging potential, and Valambous recommends waiting at least 5 years before drinking.**

100% Assyrtiko. the wine is exposed to oxygen during barrel aging (as was done in the old days when people mostly made wine for home consumption), giving it complex nutty and mushroomy notes (like dry sherry) with bright, citrusy acidity. The winery only produces 3 barrels (2,400 bottles) of this special wine.

Visiting Vassaltis

If you’re planning a trip to Santorini, a visit to Vassaltis Vineyards is a must-do, an unforgettable experience of Santorini’s cultural and winemaking heritage. With a focus on quality and terroir, Yannis Valambous has created a winery that stands out.

Vassaltis Vineyards is open for tours and wine tastings seven days a week from April to October. And make sure to indulge in some of the most delicious food on the island (truly the island’s best-kept secret) and the perfect accompaniment to Vassaltis’s terrific wines.

Visit vassaltis.com to book your experience.