Let's Talk Italian Pinot Grigio
/There’s a reason why Pinot Grigio is so popular with wine lovers: its crisp and lively character makes it a great choice to have on its own before dinner or as an excellent companion to many foods.
Arguably, the best Pinot Grigio comes from the hilly regions of northeastern Italy: Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Veneto, and when this zesty white wine was introduced to the U.S. in the late 1970s, it quickly became an American favorite.
Unfortunately, as Pinot Grigio’s popularity soared, mass production led to simplistic, low-cost styles that flooded the market, tarnishing its reputation. In recent years, however, as wine enthusiasts began demanding better wines, a surge in higher-quality offerings has breathed new life into this popular wine.
Producers are planting vines in locations that bring out the grape’s best qualities, such as in cooler, hillside areas, even if that means less wine can be made. Viticulture and winemaking have also improved through techniques like hand-harvesting, gentle pressing, controlled fermentation, and various aging methods. This attention to detail in the vineyards and in the cellar has resulted in a wide range of quality wines, from crisp and fresh to full-bodied and textured.
Another reason the wine is so popular? Pinot Grigio has one of the best price-to-value ratios in the world of wine. But remember, if you want to drink the good stuff, steer clear of budget bottles you see on every supermarket shelf, those in the $7 to $10 range.
Five Recommendations
The wine recommendations below come from two historic, family-owned producers, Alois Lageder and Marco Felluga. They show that, in the right hands, Pinot Grigio can produce complex and exciting wines.
Note: The wines sent to me are courtesy of Dalla Terra Winery Direct, a direct importer of a small group of family-owned wineries in Italy. When you see this company’s logo on a bottle’s back label, you know you are in for a real treat. I've sampled wines from every producer they represent, and have yet to encounter a disappointing one!
Established in 1823, Alois Lageder has been instrumental in elevating the Alto Adige region to global prominence. Forward-thinking, with a philosophy that emphasizes land stewardship and quality, the winery was among the first to produce single-vineyard wines.
Alois Lageder Porer Pinot Grigio Delle Dolomiti 2021. ($30) Complex and multi-layered aromas with medium-intensity of fruit and a hint of earthiness. On the palate, mouthwatering citrusy acidity, saline minerality, and a touch of creaminess; long and tasty finish. Demeter-certified biodynamic. 12% ABV.
Terra Alpina by Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Delle Dolomiti 2022. ($18) Crisp, dry, and saline. Light bodied. Great with seafood. Organic. 12.5% ABV.
Cantina Riff Pinot Grigio delle Venezie 2022. ($12) The RIFF project is a collaboration between Alois Lageder and local Veneto winegrowers. Talk about a great value! Creamy, rich, and mineral with almond, green apple, and citrus notes. Try it with mushroom hazelnut risotto. Organic. 12.5% ABV.
The Felluga family, one of Italy’s benchmark producers of white wine, has six generations of winemaking in Friuli’s renowned Collio region. Marco Felluga wines are made under the Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore labels.
Marco Felluga Mongris Collio Pinot Grigio 2022. ($16) Bouquet of white peach, green apple, and citrus peel with a mineral wet-stone edge. Lively, well-balanced, medium-bodied palate with vibrant acidity. Crisp, lingering mineral finish. 13% ABV.
Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio Pinot Grigio. ($30) Fragrant fruity aromas lead to a medium to full-bodied palate, rich and creamy, with flavors of candied fruits, baked apple, and lemon curd; long and luxurious finish includes a pleasant bitterness. A food wine! Try it with roast chicken. 13.5% ABV.