As part of the Facebook group French #Winophiles, this article was written for January’s theme “What’s New In Bordeaux.” Check out all the other great articles at the bottom of this post.

As the largest wine region in France, Bordeaux is arguably the most renowned, with wines that many consider to be the finest in the world. Yet there are thousands of producers in this sizable region and not all of them produce the pricey, classified wines upon which the region’s reputation is built. With nearly 300,000 acres of vines and 57 appellations, an enormous amount of wine — at all levels of quality — is produced.

For comparison's sake, Bordeaux makes more than six times the amount of wine produced in Burgundy, and about nine times that of Napa. However, with so much wine coming from one region, consumers can be easily overwhelmed when trying to decide which ones to buy. This is where classifications come into play, and Bordeaux has a long history of using them to rank its wines.

Wine Classifications: a Bordeaux Tradition

In 1855, with the Universal Exposition (World’s Fair) being held in Paris, Napoleon III wanted the best of his beloved Bordeaux wines to be proudly shown off. Upon his decree, the wines of the most exclusive area, the Left Bank, were ranked according to quality and price, with only 61 wine estates identified and listed as “Great Growths,” ranging from 1st down to 5th.

You’re probably wondering how this relatively small number of classified wines were chosen. For the most part, like many things in life, it came down to money. The estates selected had produced red wines that performed the best in the marketplace during the previous 5 to 10 years (meaning they commanded the highest prices). And, unsurprisingly, all but one of them hailed from the Médoc, an area historically capable of selling wine at the highest prices.

Since then, Bordeaux has become known for these expensive 1855-classified Growths, but what about the hundreds of other estates in the Médoc area that were (and still are) making excellent wines? What could be done for them? You guessed it, create another classification!

A warm welcome awaits you at Chateau Roquegrave. Photo: @roquegrave on Instagram. — **A warm welcome awaits you at Chateau Roquegrave**. *Photo: @roquegrave on Instagram.*

The Birth of the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc

One of the goals of creating wine classifications is to help consumers make choices in a saturated marketplace, and the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc was founded in 1932 as a way to recognize the best of the thousands of properties that had been omitted from the 1855 rankings. The classification began with the selection of 444 estates, and over the years, the Cru Bourgeois guidelines, along with its members, has evolved while frequently changing.

The 2020 Cru Bourgeois Classification

Most recently, in 2020, a new set of parameters was set forth, nearly ten years in the making. The 2020 classification identifies 249 qualified wineries, all located in the Medoc, and, similar to the 1932 classification, divides them into three quality levels: Crus Bourgeois, Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs, and the highest level, Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels, of which only 14 properties have been awarded.

Unlike the 1855 classification that was based on a winery’s success in the marketplace, each château applying for Cru Bourgeois standing goes through a rigorous process, overseen by impartial judges from outside the Médoc region, and includes blind tastings of five vintages.

Other considerations, like the winery’s vinification and winemaking procedures, commitment to the environment and wine tourism offerings, are also a part of the equation. And, unlike the etched-in-stone 1855 classification, a winery’s Cru Bourgeois status is not a lifetime guarantee, with a re-evaluation occurring every five years.

How Does this Help You, as a Wine Consumer?

Thanks to the blind selection process, the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc guarantees consumers a standard of quality for every bottle that proudly bears its label. Yet Panos Kakaviatos, founder of the popular website wine-chronicles.com, notes that, due to strife over an earlier classification in 2003 which had been annulled, many top Médoc estates not included in the 1855 classification chose not to join the new Cru Bourgeois designation. However, he says that the new 2020 classification helps “guide us to the cream of the officially recognized crop.”

Made from a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cru Bourgeois wines, with prices typically ranging from $18 to $35, offer excellent value for the money and can be enjoyed every night of the week. “Recent improvements in viticulture and winemaking have raised the game for many Bordeaux estates,” says Kakaviatos, “but price increases have not affected the Cru Bourgeois level, which can often (if not always) punch above its weight.” He goes on to say that in restaurants, the Cru Bourgeois selections are affordable for savvy wine buyers with budget in mind, either by the glass or by the bottle. (See a few of Panos’s top selections below).

The beautiful Chateau Saint Ahon. Photo: @chateausaintahon — **The beautiful Chateau Saint Ahon.** *Photo: @chateausaintahon*

Young spectators at Chateau Balac. photo: @chateau_Balac on Instagram. — **Young spectators at Chateau Balac**. *photo: @chateau_Balac on Instagram*.

Identifying Cru Bourgeois on a Store’s Shelf

As of the 2018 vintage, the new classification appears on the front label, indicating which of the three levels the wine has been included in. On the back label, you will find a sticker with a QR code that can lead you to information about the winery’s terroir, vinification, aging, and more — simply by scanning the code on a smartphone.

For wine lovers seeking high-quality Bordeaux wines at a fair price, Cru Bourgeois wines are the way to go. Unlike the 1855-classified wines that need decades to come into their own, and are frequently saved for special occasions, these are wines to drink now!

Below are notes on five wines classified as Crus Bourgeois du Médoc tasted during the past several months that are worth seeking out.

*photo: @cambon_la_Pelouse on Instagram*

Château des Tourelles 2016 Cru Bourgeois.This classic style Bordeaux (47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc) offers ripe dark red fruits like blackcurrant, along with complex notes of earthy chalkiness, as well as savory black pepper, bell pepper, and cedar. A very well-balanced, fresh wine that goes perfectly with roast chicken.
Château Serilhan 2016 Cru Bourgeois Supérieurs. This is a rich, full-style Bordeaux (48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc) that has a lot of rich cherry fruit notes along with eucalyptus, cedar and minerals, like iron. Its beautiful salinity and acidity makes this wine a top choice with everything from swordfish steaks to hangar steak.
Château Cambon La Pelouse 2015 - Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels (50% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot). A full-bodied Bordeaux with harmonious tannins, good structure, nice acidity and a medium to long finish. Restrained plum and cassis fruit notes balance well with oak and tobacco flavors.
Château Malescasse 2017 - Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels (53% Merlot). Overseen by famous wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, this property is considered one of the top in the Médoc. The 2017 is supple and full with velvety tannins and notes of black fruit, coffee and leather. With subtle hints of tobacco and herbs, the wine is an ideal match for the smokiness of meat on the grill with a tangy marinade.
Château du Taillan 2015 - Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. (70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc). This full-bodied, nicely balanced wine has dark fruit, leather and earthy notes, along with vanilla, raspberry and oak. Pair it with osso bucco or pizza.

And don’t be afraid to others. With 247 Cru Bourgeois estates, you’re sure to find your favorites. Panos Kakaviatos’s top selections include Le Crock, Lilian Ladouys, Beau Site, Paveil de Luze, and Belle-Vue.

With so much tradition in Bordeaux, the region isn’t exactly known as a hotbed of innovation. Yet, our Facebook group, French Winophiles, has dug in and found plenty of new things going on in this traditional winemaking region. Check out these fabulous articles, and join our chat on Twitter: Saturday, Jan. 16th from 11-12 ET at #Winophiles. See you there!
Susannah at Avvinare shares “Cru Bourgeois – A Closer Look At Chateau Labadie”