Ernest Catena and The Grape You Didn’t Know Argentina Does So Well
/When people think of Argentine wine, they think of Malbec—a bold, dark-fruited, plush red that put the country on the global wine map. But to focus solely on Malbec would be to miss the broader story of Argentina’s viticultural riches.
Among the lesser-known grape varieties emerging from Mendoza and beyond is Cabernet Sauvignon—a grape that, in the right hands, can rival more famous expressions from Chile and California. One winemaker who has embraced Cabernet Sauvignon with passion and creativity is Ernesto Catena.
Son of the legendary Nicolás Catena, a pioneer who brought Argentine wine to the world stage, Ernesto was immersed in vineyards and wine from an early age. Inspired by his heritage but eager to forge his own path, he now owns and oversees several wineries in the spirit of what he humbly calls “the path of the artist.” Catena’s belief in the connection between humans, nature, and the universe has led him to embrace artisanal winemaking that follows organic and biodynamic principles.
Through his boutique wineries—Bodegas Tahuan, Siesta, Alma Negra, and Ánimal—Catena is proving that Cabernet Sauvignon deserves just as much attention as Malbec. His vineyards are located in Vista Flores, a high-altitude subregion of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, where the towering Andes Mountains moderate the climate, ensuring a long growing season with warm days and cool nights. These diurnal shifts help preserve acidity in the grapes, giving the wines remarkable freshness and structure. The region’s alluvial soils, rich in limestone and rock, add complexity, minerality, and fine tannins.
I recently sampled three of Ernesto Catena’s Cabernets, each with its own character. For comparison’s sake and if you're more familiar with California reds, these wines are less 'in your face' fruity, oaky, and tannic. They are more savory, with the fruit, acidity, tannins, and alcohol mingling harmoniously. And they won’t stain your teeth purple as easily as a Napa Cab will, either!
Tahuan Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (SRP: $16.99). The story of Tahuan began with Ernesto’s fascination with the Incan Tahuantinsuyu, “The Found Lands United.” Inspired by the ancient network of Andean roads connecting cultures from Quito to Mendoza, he created Tahuan wines as a tribute to this heritage.
Tasting Notes: Intense aromatic expression with spicy notes of raspberry, cherry, and blackberry with undertones of chalk and iron. Medium-bodied and earthy on the palate, with dusty tannins with a good balance of red and black fruit, with hints of tobacco and chalk. A delicious wine that pairs beautifully with roast chicken with chimichurri.
Ánimal Cabernet Sauvignon Organic 2023 (SRP $24.99). The winery draws inspiration from local Inca and Mayan traditions, with buildings designed in pre-Columbian architectural styles.
Tasting Notes: Lively and fresh, this one is all about energy. Redcurrant, raspberry, and fresh herbs jump from the glass. It has a rustic edge, with fine tannins and hints of vanilla oak and a wonderful balance between its fruit, tannins, and alcohol, making it drinkable now or one for the cellar. Terrific with herb-rubbed charcoal-grilled lamb chops and eggplant, zucchini, and bell peppers.
Siesta Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (SRP: $34.99). Siesta was inspired by an ancient Incan tradition of burying offerings to keep the land fertile. In honor of this practice, Ernesto Catena’s team buries bottles of their finest wine in the Vistaflores vineyard each year, hoping that while sleeping their eternal “Siesta,” these bottles will protect the vines, people, and harvest.
Tasting Notes: Fruit and vanilla-forward aromatics lead to a rich-fruited, full-bodied wine with notes of plum and mint. Polish tannins frame a wine that unfolds slowly, revealing earthy and savory undertones alongside its ripe fruit core. Pair with hard cheeses like manchego or cheddar and spice-rubbed grilled ribs.
While Malbec still dominates Argentina’s wine scene, Ernesto Catena’s work with Cabernet Sauvignon reminds us that there’s so much more to explore. His wines beautifully capture the region’s terroir, offering a fresh take on a classic grape.