Cullen Skink, a Funny-Sounding Scottish Soup to Serve with Scotch Whisky
/Cullen Skink (quite the name, right?) is a delicious fish soup that’s thick like a chowder and made of smoked haddock, potatoes, onions and milk. The dish originates from Cullen, a small village in Scotland’s Moray region on the North Sea coast.
The word skink refers to the Scottish term for a knuckle or shin of beef — initially Cullen Skink was a beef broth, popular in the village during the 1800s. However, as a harbor town, Cullen’s supply of fish was more plentiful and less costly than beef. During hard times, smoked haddock became a popular substitute for the meat and eventually, though the word skink stuck, the dish was transformed into a distinctive milk and fish-based chowder.
And what could be better with a traditional Scottish dish than Scotch? People don’t always think of having whisky with a meal, but there are many foods that go famously with a dram (a single serving) of Scotch. One of them is Cullen Skink. The soup’s subtle smokiness and creamy texture goes particularly well with single malt Scotch.
Balblair Highlands Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Established in 1790, Balblair is one of the oldest working distilleries in the Scottish Highlands, producing flavor-intensive, high quality single malts. And, it just so happens that the distillery is located just a two hours drive south along the coastline from Cullen — proof for the old adage, “What grows together, goes together.”
While preparing the Cullen Skink recipe, I cracked open three Balblair single malt whiskies, sent as samples: 12, 15 and 18 year olds. Between the slightly smoky scent of the fish simmering in milk and the fragrant notes of oranges, apples, honey and caramel emanating from the scotch, I was in an aromatic whisky-scented heaven.
Upon tasting them, I felt like Goldilocks deciding which one would be just right to have with the soup.
Balblair 12 Year Old (SRP $70): With notes of dried orange and ground exotic spices, this youngster is light-bodied, zesty and crisp, with a strong note of wood on the finish. Delicious to sip while cooking and nibbling on cheeses , but maybe not the one to have with the rich soup.
Balblair 15 Year Old (SRP $119.99): In color, this one was the darkest of the three; a beautiful deep amber color. The fragrant nose is of honey and spicy gingerbread followed by juicy prunes and fresh lemon peel. The palate is rich and full-bodied with a velvety feel and striking, buttery notes of honey, caramel, creamy vanilla and melted chocolate. Stunning for sure, but probably best with dessert that evening, a pumpkin olive oil cake with salted caramel buttercream.
Balblair 18 Year Old: ($209.99). This one has enticing and fruity aromas of fresh apple and pear, along with underlying deeper notes of raisins and prunes. On the palate it is rich and creamy, but less so than the 15. Its subtle notes of leather, almonds, dried apricots, vanilla custard and chocolate are all wrapped up in warming winter spices, with each element in perfect sync with the others. Of the three, the complex 18 was Goldilocks-approved, and just right for the soup!
Cullen Skink Recipe
Recipe adapted from SeriousEats.com.
Serves 4 as an appetizer
Ingredients
3 cups whole milk
3/4 - 1 lb smoked haddock (Fresh smoked haddock, also called Finnan Haddie, is not easy to find here in the US. I purchased mine online at MaineLobsterNow.com).
2 tablespoons good quality butter, like Kerrygold
1 medium onion, diced
2 large potatoes, peeled and diced
salt and pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
chopped fresh parsley for garnish
Instructions
1) In a medium saucepan, heat milk over medium heat until nearly simmering. Add fish and cook until tender and just starting to flake, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove fish; set aside. Transfer milk to heatproof mixing bowl or other container; set aside.
2) Rinse saucepan and return to medium heat. Add butter and heat until melted. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, about 6 minutes. Return milk to saucepan and add potatoes. Bring milk to low simmer and cook potatoes until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes; stir and scrape saucepan occasionally to prevent milk from scorching.
3) Using a potato masher or large wooden spoon, crush potatoes in pot until partially mashed. You want a range of potato sizes (some of them so small they disintegrate and thicken the broth, but also other larger chunks). Remove and discard any skin or bones from fish; then flake into the soup. Add cream and salt and pepper to taste, and, if desired, cayenne pepper. Simmer soup gently for 4 to 5 minutes to heat up the fish. Spoon soup into bowls. Sprinkle parsley on top of each and serve.