Bouchard Père et Fils 2018 Vintage: Eight Wines to Take Note Of
/The wines of Bouchard Père & Fils are a subtle balance between nature and craftsmanship. This Bourgogne producer’s stellar portfolio of carefully-tended vineyards and a winemaking team focused on the details result in remarkably consistent and noteworthy wines.
Here are eight fine examples, four reds, and four whites, tasted at a dinner with Fréderick Weber, the winery’s longtime cellar master. Read the full article here: Bouchard Père et Fils: A Tasting of 2018s Reveals an Outstanding Vintage.
Clos de la Mousse, Beaune Premier Cru, Monopole, 2018 ($70). 100% Pinot Noir.
During the 19th century, the Bouchard family bought several vineyards of this cru, finally turning it into a monopole, which means that Bouchard owns the entire appellation, a total of 9.29 acres. The vineyard is made up of high terraces surrounded by a stone wall, and the soil is a very dense red, water-retentive clay, helping the vine never to suffer from drought. The 2018 Clos de la Mousse expresses a lot of ripe strawberry and blackberry fruit with round tannins, “A true Beaune,” says Weber. Pairing suggestion: chicken in a mushroom sauce.
Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus, Beaune Grèves Premier Cru 2018 ($140). 100% Pinot Noir.
Purchased by the Bouchard family in 1791, this vineyard of 8.6 acres in Beaune Grève is the flagship of the winery. An old story says that a Carmelite nun from the "Enfant Jésus" order predicted the birth of Louis XIV, even though his mother was believed to be sterile. On the birth of the future king, the vineyard, along with a wooden statue of baby Jesus, was offered to the Carmelites as an expression of gratitude.
The vineyard is in the middle of the slope, considered a perfect location. Weber says that in Bourgogne, this part of the slope is referred to as the “filet mignon” because it is the top area for vines. Indeed, the gravelly, sandy soils consistently produce delicately fruity, elegant, and fresh wines that can be enjoyed now or held onto for decades.
“Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus has amazing ageability,” says Weber. “In the cellar, we have a huge collection of old bottles from 1865 and 1891, and the wines have evolved incredibly; they are still very fresh.”
Fun fact: The wooden baby Jesus statue still exists, and the winery changes its clothing twice a year, in the fall and spring.
Les Caillerets, Volnay Premier Cru 2018 ($100). 100% Pinot Noir.
Les Caillerets was the first vineyard bought by the Bouchard family in 1775. The Premier Cru vineyard of 9.29-acres gets its name from the light-reflecting stones (caillerets are small pebbles) at the ground’s surface which force the vines to grow deep roots into the chalky limestone in search of water and nutrients. The 2018 Les Caillerets has a soft and silky texture that embraces rich and concentrated flavors of cherry and blackberry fruit, followed by a long, complex, fruity, earthy finish. Try it with Duck with cabbage and turnips.
Le Corton, Grand Cru 2018 ($150). 100% Pinot Noir.
For over 100 years, Bouchard Père & Fils has been cultivating seventeen-plus acres of “Le Corton” on the Corton hill, where higher elevation and bright morning sun lend the wines great aging potential.
The soils of this vineyard, more marl than clay, produce a spicy, racy wine with fine tannins and many layers of flavor, from herbal (rosemary and thyme) to ripe red cherry, which linger on the palate. Excellent when paired with swordfish with a miso vinaigrette.
Clos Saint-Landry, Beaune Premier Cru, Monopole, 2018 ($70). 100% Chardonnay.
The oldest traces of the Chardonnay grape variety in Beaune can be found at this site, a rarity in what is predominantly Pinot Noir territory. Bouchard Père & Fils purchased the vineyard from the church in 1791, right after the French Revolution, and has kept the monopoly of 4.89 acres of white Premier Cru. The yellow marl subsoil brings vivacity and freshness to the wines, along with a hint of salinity and a very long finish. Pairs well with fluke tartare with jicama in a truffle dressing.
Genevrières, Meursault Premier Cru 2018 ($150). 100% Chardonnay.
In the olden days, the “Genevrières” vineyards must have been surrounded by junipers, and the name has lived on.
Bouchard possesses a large ownership of this legendary vineyard (6.55 acres) where they have two plots, one at a higher elevation with limestone soils and the other at lower elevation with mostly brown clay soils. Both are vinified and aged separately before blending to deliver an elegant wine that is a nice balance of acidity with ripe, rich fruit flavors. The 2018 Genevrières is full-bodied with a creamy texture yet offers tension and minerality and is very generous with notes of white flowers and citrus. A great match with ocean trout with apple, ginger, and jalapeño.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2018 ($210). 100% Chardonnay.
In 1909, Bouchard Père & Fils acquired 60% of this prestigious vineyard at Le Corton, which has the rare distinctiveness of being planted with both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Today, Bouchard Père & Fils is the third most important owner in Corton-Charlemagne, with 9 acres. This Grand Cru is full-bodied, with a lot of sapidity (a mineral saltiness) and notes of ripe green apples, pears, and pineapple. A rich, powerful wine, it is delicious now, but should be even more sublime in five to ten-plus years. Try it with salmon and creamed spinach.
La Cabotte, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2018 ($1,800 sold in 1.5L magnums).
100% Chardonnay.
Chevalier-Montrachet forms a horizontal strip at the top of the upper part of Montrachet and comprises four terraces. Bouchard Père & Fils purchased the 2.33 hectares of property in 1838, and is the only winery that can produce Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. "Cabotte" refers to the little dry, stone shelter nestled in the 0.21-hectare vineyard, which historically was used to store tools and provide shelter for the vineyard workers.
The 2018 La Cabotte is full-bodied, dense, and creamy, with notes of citrusy tangerine, green apples, blanched almonds, white flowers, and buttered toast. Its racy acidity lends a terrific balance between power and elegance. An excellent choice with butter-poached lobster.
Many thanks to Maisons & Domaines Henriot for providing the background information on each wine.