Puglia, also called Apulia, is a long, thin region in the southeastern corner of Italy. The area produces more wine than any other region of Italy, accounting for about 17% of the country's total wine production.

Puglia’s hot, arid climate produces very concentrated grapes that are high in sugar, resulting in wines of high alcohol, sometimes a whopping 17 or 18% alcohol by volume (as a reference point, fortified wines like Port are about 18% ABV). The wines tend to be rustic in style, yet the best producers are able to preserve the natural acidity of the grapes to create wines with a good balance between the sweetness of the fruit, the strong tannins, and the high alcohol.

One of the region’s most famous wines is Primitivo di Manduria, a dark purplish, rich and spicy cousin of Zinfandel, the popular American wine. The city of Manduria is considered Primitivo's spiritual home, although records indicate that it originated in Croatia. As for its name, Primitivo refers to the variety’s early ripening and comes from the Latin “primativus” and Old Italian “primaticcio,” which mean “first” or “early.”

For most of the 20th century, the Primitivos from Manduria, many of them mass-produced, had a reputation as being only good enough for blending. They tended to be harsh with the taste of baked fruit. Fortunately, beginning in the 1980s, as wine consumers began demanding better wines, the region’s producers started to reduce yields and use more modern vinification technologies, favoring quality over quantity. Many Primitivo di Mandurias are now complex, finessed wines and the region is beginning to gain international recognition.

The best Primitivo di Mandurias are full-bodied and fruit-forward with a refreshing acidity. They typically offer hints of both sour and black cherry, plums, and sometimes a touch of strawberry or raspberry jam. Many have a spiciness with pepper and liquorice notes, as well as notes of Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, lavender and sage.

These wines pair beautifully with rich dishes, like roasted, stewed and braised meats, aged cheeses, pizza and spicy Asian cuisine. An excellent summertime choice, Primitivo di Manduria is a great choice with barbecue: pulled pork, ribs, steak, chili-rubbed chicken—anything with a lot of flavor and a mild char.

A traditional Puglian trullo, a dry-stone hut, once used to store farm tools. Today, many are preserved as a testimony to the region’s peasant civilization, with Some being used as charming event venues.

Wines to Try

Below are four top-of-the-line Primitivo di Manduria wines to look for. The wines were provided as samples for a masterclass by Gambero Rosso, the global authority on Italian wines and publisher of the annual Vini d’Italia (Italian Wines) guide.

Trullo di Pezza Licurti Primitivo di Manduria 2018. A big fruity(dried fruit) and herbal (eucalyptus) wine. Nice balance with soft tannins, fresh acidity and a long finish. This Primitivo, relative to the others I tasted, is more tart; dryer in style with a nice blend of fruity notes and acidity. Certified organic.

Produttori di Manduria Lirica Primitivo di Manduria 2017. Notes of dried and ripe fruit (mostly cherry), with a hint of earthy, funky notes. A bit lighter bodied than most of the others sampled, yet still lush and velvety with deep fruit flavors. Great with meat dishes and pizza.

Leone de Castris Villa Santera Primitivo di Manduria 2019. Fruity yet tangy, with very present oaky vanilla notes mingled with high toned cherry, blueberry, blackberry and plum fruit. Soft, pleasant tannins and a surprisingly short finish. Excellent with lamb chops.

San Marzano Sessantanni Old Vines Primitivo di Manduria 2016. Deep dark purplish red color. Big, bold with concentrated red fruit notes, notably cherry. Medium-high tannins and lots of spice notes—pepper, cinnamon and anise. A great wine for steak. My only issue with the wine is its heavy, not environmentally-friendly bottle.