A Spectacular Hike in Alto Adige’s Dolomite Mountains
/If you were to ask me one of the most beautiful wine regions I’ve traveled to, Alto Adige would be right there at the top of the list. Also called South Tyrol, or Südtirol in German, this most northerly province of Italy borders Austria and, until 1919, was a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Today, Alto Adige is a multicultural mix of German and Italian influences, revealed through its architecture, language, traditions, cuisine, and wine.
Less crowded than well-known Italian tourist destinations like Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast, Alto Adige’s stunning landscape attracts nature enthusiasts who prefer quiet, open spaces with fresh, alpine air. The combination of grassy green fields, forests, vineyards, pastures, and turquoise-hued lakes, is like none other.
And if that’s not enough, the magnificent Dolomite mountains, with their 18 craggy peaks, stand tall above it all. Honored in 2009 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its beauty and geological significance, the Dolomites spread out across Alto Adige and four other Italian provinces.
Hiking Heaven
Unsurprisingly, this mountainous region is a hiker’s delight, offering hundreds of trails, from easy (a walk around the turquoise waters of Lago di Braies) to moderate and extremely challenging.
In June 2022, I traveled to Alto Adige as part of a small group of wine writers. The trip was sponsored by one of Alto Adige’s most historic wineries, Cantina Tramin, founded in 1898 in the foothills of the Dolomites. The winery produces fresh and aromatic white and red wines that are a match made in heaven with the region’s flavorful cuisine: barley and smoked pork stew, polenta with mushrooms and cheese, and bread dumplings in a rich, meaty broth, to name a few.
Upon arrival, we were met at the train station by Wolfgang Klotz, Cantina Tramin’s Marketing Director, who drove us to our accommodations, Berghotel Jochgrimm in Aldino, a small town at the foothills of the mountains. This charming wellness hotel, spa, and wintertime ski resort is located at the base of Passo Oclini, a trail that winds its way up to a summit called Corno Bianco, which means “white horn” after the color of its rocks.
You may think the marketing person for a winery would have set up a tasting for this captive audience of wine journalists, but think again! Alto Adige’s locals, Klotz included, are known to be very proud of their land’s beauty, and rightly so. More than anything, Klotz was eager to show off the splendor outside, especially on a gorgeous, sunny day in June.
Before even a drop of wine had passed our lips, Klotz was guiding us on a 2-hour hike from the hotel to Corno Bianco and back.
Passo Oclini begins on a narrow path surrounded by verdant green fields dotted here and there with yellow, purple, and white wildflowers. Higher up, the terrain becomes more forested, and finally, nearing the summit, it’s mostly rocky.
Although the trail is considered moderately challenging, the gorgeous Dolomite setting and Klotz’s conversation helped to keep our minds off the physical challenges. As we steadily climbed higher, Klotz spoke about the calcareous soil underfoot, a type of limestone different from the rest of the Alps—wine writers love talking about rocks and soil!
Another fascinating fact we learned: millions of years ago, the mountain we were hiking was under the sea. These rock formations started as fossilized coral reefs, formed about 250 million years ago during the Triassic period. How incredible to think that, once upon a time, fish were swimming around in the very spot where we were trekking.
As we got closer to the trail’s summit of 7600 feet, we were welcomed by cooling gusts of wind, striking views, and a large wooden cross, a Catholic symbol of gratitude for the protection of those traversing the mountains.
Wine Time
Out of breath, we stopped to take it all in as we arrived at the summit. The views were simply amazing! Klotz then revealed that he had stowed away a delicious treat for tired hikers in his backpack. Out came a bottle of Cantina Tramin 2018 Selida Gewürztraminer, made from one of Alto Adige’s signature grapes. The wine’s scent of lychees, rose petals, and tropical fruits led to a creamy textured palate with refreshing acidity.
It was just what the occasion had merited: a special wine born of a beautiful region. A perfect celebration of a well-done hike in the Dolomite mountains.