Viognier could be one of the world’s most underrated white wine grapes. A lot of people have never heard of it, let alone tasted it, and certainly don’t know how to pronounce it: vee-on-yay. Yet this aromatic variety produces some of the greatest white wines in the world.

Until recently, plantings of Viognier could only be found in France's Northern Rhône Valley where the grape is believed to have originated. Low-yielding and difficult-to-grow, the variety has had a rough go of it; just 50 years ago when it was on the verge of extinction with only about 25 acres remaining. At the time, Viognier was not as lucrative as the abundant cherries, apricots and plums that farmers could easily sell at Parisian markets.

Today, with wine consumers demanding better quality, distinctive wines, growers are realizing Viognier’s newfound commercial viablity. The grape’s telltale fruity aromas include inviting scents of apricots, honeysuckle, orange blossoms and peach. On the palate, Viognier is full-bodied, and what the French would call a gastronomic wine (un vin gastronomique), meaning a wine that is well- structured, complex, and versatile enough to pair well with many cuisines.

Fortunately for wine lovers, the Rhône Valley is now planted with about 740 acres of Viognier, and the grape can also be found in New World wine regions like South Africa, California, Oregon and Australia.

In the land down under, the oldest family-owned winery, Yalumba, is one of the most significant producers of Viognier, as well as the first winery outside of France to have planted it in the 1980. Peter Wolf, Yalumba’s chief winemaker at the time, had fallen in love with Viognier during his travels in France and thought the grape could do well for him back home.

However, the grape’s Australian start was disheartening for Wolf and the winery. Viognier is not the easiest grape to grow and Yalumba’s early examples were underwhelming. It wasn’t until now-head winemaker Louisa Rose arrived that the wine’s Australian future would brighten. She became an advocate for Viognier and under her direction, the wines went from flabby and uninteresting, to full-flavored with great freshness and precision.

**Louisa Rose, Yalumba’s Chief Winemaker.**

On Food Pairing

“Viognier is most at home when it is with food,” says Rose. “It’s not simply an aperitif-style wine to sip on while standing out in the sunshine in the afternoon. As soon as you introduce food into the experience, that’s where these wines really come into their own.”

Rose’s enthusiasm for Viognier at the table is evident. In fact, she has trouble finding foods that don’t go with Viognier. “If anyone finds a food or cuisine that doesn’t go with Viognier, then you need to let us know,” she says, “because the amount of foods that do go with the wine is endless.”

**Viognier can pair with so many foods, like garlic and smoked paprika-rubbed** **shrimp**.

Rose particularly enjoys Viognier with complex, earthy spices and bright chile flavors that are found across the world’s spice route, from the Middle East to Asia.

Another pairing she loves is Viognier with breakfast, of all things! She says that since Yalumba’s red wines tend to be more dinner-appropriate, they often plan winery tastings of Viognier with breakfast and brunch.

“Eggs Benedict is amazing, crepes, meusli and yogurt, granola and more, make a great match with Viognier,” says Rose.

But Rose isn’t suggesting that Viognier is only for breakfast. “I think every steakhouse should have a Viognier on the list for people who don’t want a red wine,” she says, “because it’s an equally great match with red meat. One of the great joys of my life is when I convince a red-wine-only drinker to try a glass of Viognier. Inevitably, they love it.”

Ready to try Viognier wines from Australia? Yalumba produces four superb ones which I tasted during a recent online seminar led by Rose. From fresh and fruity to rounder and more full-bodied, these wines are an excellent choice for your summer table.

Y Series Viognier 2021. Rose calls this wine “big and friendly,” due to its accessible, mouth-filling texture despite being aged only in stainless steel. A great introduction to Australian Viognier, the wine is a showcase for the grape’s characteristic apricot and stone fruit flavors, as well as jasmine flowers and gingery spice.

Organic Viognier 2021. The grapes are sourced from the Barich family property who farm organically. No oak is used and the wine goes through natural wild fermentation. This wine is creamy textured and fresh, with fragrant and tasty notes of apricot, apple, stone fruits and citrus.

Samuel’s Collection Eden Valley Viognier 2020. Made from the vineyards surrounding Yalumba’s winery, here the sunshine-filled days and cool nights help intensify and preserve the grapes’ aromatics. This exuberant wine is full of apricot, white peaches, ginger, and white pepper notes, with a slight anise character. “The wine’s refreshing length should be making you hungry,” says Rose.

The Virgilius Eden Valley Viognier 2019. Yalumba’s flagship white wine and a benchmark for the variety. Compared to the Samuel’s Collection, it is more restrained, yet with the complexity for it to evolve and open up over time. “We are looking for the wine to ultimately take people on a journey,” says Rose. “As The Virgilius opens up, you gradually get all of the lovely Viognier characteristics from the fruit—ginger, white pepper and stone fruit—and more tertiary characteristics too, such as a flinty minerality, and with a very lengthy finish.”